The B01 didn’t have the same staying power within Dior Homme’s collections as the Replica did within Maison Margiela’s and the silhouette was considered an archival piece by the mid-2010s. But, late last year Dior Homme—then helmed by Kris Van Assche—announced that the B01 would be making a return for the label’s Spring-Summer 2018 collection. If you’re a fan of vintage footwear, you’re going to appreciate the adidas BW Army Utility White. This silhouette is already available early via a handful of retailers. Otherwise, you can wait for the official launch at adidas UK, scheduled in mid June. If it weren’t for the suede crafted overlay across the toe box, all eyes would remain on the premium crafted leather. The laces remain tonal in the same shade as the upper, as does the tongue branding and inner lining. The Maison Margiela Replica is probably the best known iteration of the German Army Trainer, owing to its broad appeal as an elegant designer sneaker that is simple enough to be understood outside of the fashion cognoscenti. While the GAT is not a Margiela creation, its popularity in recent years may be; the label's successes may have pushed others to try their hands at reinventing the Bundeswehr-issued trainer.

Chocolate coloured leather hints at the exclusivity of this 70s era classic. It’s re-born in spectacular fashion complete with adidas Originals detailing from heel to toe. Perhaps it meant nothing. But, Watanabe is notoriously rigorous in his research and often unearths the most authentic references and partners for his collections. He works with Levi’s for denim, Carhartt for workwear, The North Face for outerwear, Lacoste for polos and Converse for vulcanized sneakers. So, perhaps, by working with Puma for a German Army Trainer, Watanabe and Puma were dropping a subtle hint that it was Rudolf’s company—rather than Adolf’s—that was responsible for birthing the originator. A gum coloured outsole provides a nice contrast underfoot, stamped with adidas Originals insignia for that real vintage look. Finally, a chunky tongue adds durable comfort, making this ideal for all-round wear.

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When the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, some 500,000 soldiers had been issued Bundeswehr Sportschuche. When the Cold War came to an end, the Bundeswehr was subsequently, and rather dramatically, downsized. As a result, hundreds of thousands of pairs of GATs were in the possession of suddenly ordinary civilians who no longer needed them for service use. And as recently discharged soldiers are wont to do in a recently unified country undergoing economic redevelopment in uncertain times, many of them sold their standard issue gear—including the BW Sport trainers—to army surplus stores. German military garb tends to be fetishized among army surplus fans; the force’s camouflage considered to be among the most popular in the world, which helped boost the popularity of the BW Sport. More importantly though, it was a well-designed and simple sneaker that was supremely versatile. A crisp white leather upper and contrasting gum rubber sole had the hallmarks of a wardrobe staple, while also proving to be durable—evidenced by the fact that standard issue pairs are still wearable and being sold on the secondary market. This premium rendition showcases soft and luxurious leather that hits mostly everything in sight. As a homage to 70s and 80s era footwear, the BW Army remains timeless and understated. Pair these with jeans for a smarter look or opt for a more casual theme with your favourite joggers. It’s this versatility which makes them so desirable.

To complete this shoe, a gum coloured midsole sits underfoot complete with embossed adidas branding.A gentle precaution when buying the shoe, be wary of the shoe size as some suggest that it runs smaller than expected. Compare With Before diving into the shoe’s murky history, it’s important to establish what exactly makes a German Army Trainer. Traditionally GATs feature white leather uppers and gum rubber soles, with grey or off-white suede detailing on the toe box and the side panel featuring a small leather overlay.

Image credits: moresneakers, moresneakers, moresneakers, sneakerworld, sneakerworld, stasp (article images) T he shoes’ unique look is achieved with high quality leather uppers and suede toe overlays. The Adidas trademark three stripes is replaced by a subtle branding on the sole and a monochromatic Trefoil logo on the tongue. A good design choice if you prefer to put style first rather than to lavishly showcase the shoes’ brand. The comfort this lightweight shoe provides is also noteworthy. Cons

A suede overlay stretches across the toe box in a contrasting shade of white. It’s a subtle touch against the otherwise white colourway that adds a premium feel and look. The snug inner lining remains tonal in a shade of white, as does the branding across the tongue. Perhaps the most bizarre addition to the German Army Trainer’s iconography has come from Puma, a brand that claimed it had absolutely nothing to do with the creation of a training shoe for the [Bundeswehr]( https://www.grailed.com/designers/bundeswehr. But, in 2013, the brand released a collaboration with Japanese designer Junya Watanabe: A sneaker bearing all of the hallmarks of a German Army Trainer—from the gum sole and toe box detailing—in addition to Puma’s iconic formstrip. Fast-forward a few decades and the domestic competition between adidas and Puma was at a fever pitch once the West German Army announced it was looking for shoe fit for its force; it was a group that stood at some half million men and women. According to some excellent digging by Luke Leitch, official records from the Bundeswehr History Museum, the initial prototypes of what would eventually become the GAT were proposed by Puma. Strangely, Puma has no records of ever producing a training sneaker for the Bundeswehr and has even gone on record (to the Wall Street Journal no less) to state that the company was never involved in producing the shoe for the West German military. As the shoe’s name implies, the German Army Trainer’s roots lie with the German Army, though the exact origins are a little more convoluted. In the late 1970s, the West German Army was seeking new training shoes for its soldiers and, given the sheer size of the standing force, it was a lucrative contract to be had. As a result, two of Germany’s biggest sportswear and sneaker manufacturers set their sights on outfitting the Bundeswehr: adidas and Puma.