But, any replacement will need a wee bit of basic work - removing wires and refitting them on the new. It can be easily installed and wired, making it a convenient choice for both professional installers and DIY enthusiasts. The thermostat only switches on when, for example, the difference deviates more than 2˚C from the set room temperature. Currently, the earth wire (yellow/green) goes to the earth connection, neutral (blue) goes to connection 3 and the live (brown) wire goes to connection 1.

Wiring on Honeywell T6360 room stat | DIYnot Forums Wiring on Honeywell T6360 room stat | DIYnot Forums

My new thermostat, when switched to the lowest settind (off) still heats the radiators (normally overnight. So to answer your question, if you do have the Wiser with the control box, the best way forward would probably be to exchange it for the wired version. Might not be that difficult to someone who knows what they are doing but the guy didnt know the difference between a live and neutral even with the diagram.This would leave me with an internet bridge plugged into my router, a wired thermostat and 8 Smart radiator thermostats.

Honeywell T6360B1028 Room Thermostat, 230/240V, White, 1

The thermostat does not need an earth as it is double insulated; the earth terminal is provided as a "parking terminal", i. I have an existing Earth [goes to Sunvic back-plate] but, from reading all the previous Posts here, this is now redundant with the new Honeywell and can be taped-off securely. I was just wondering if there is an easy way of using my existing wiring to connect up the LED, or if additional wiring is needed?

Wired for simple fitting on a wall or switch box, this thermostat has a heat anticipator for close temperature control and is also capable of running cooling systems as well as heating. The only way to confirm for sure, would be by knowing what is connected to the other end of each of the wires. Hmm perhaps a prog stat might be a little bit of overkill then as do all my programming on the boiler at the moment and that all seems to be working fine. However from your description it sounds as if you may have the version with the separate wired control box like this. It also has a variable temperature control range from 10 to 30 degrees Celsius, and a switchable voltage operation between 220 and 240 volts, making it compatible with most types of central heating systems.

Honeywell Home Wired Room Thermostat (T6360B1028) | CEF

at 7am, then down to - ooh - 16oC at 9am, then back up to 20oC at 4pm, and up slightly to 21oC at 8pm and then down to 14oC at 11pm. I am confused to where the existing cables (yellow, red, blue) should be attached to into the Honeywell. Your old stat is 'hard-wired' which means the cables need to be unscrewed and then fitted on to the new one - perhaps via a new 'back-plate'. The wire isn't connected to anything useful at the other end and terminal 4 has just been used to 'park' the wire.

The thermostat comes with a range of customizable settings, allowing users to program heating and cooling schedules to suit their needs. High current version is available for electrical heating systems along with setback and indicator lamp versions. y -to-wire terminals with built-in conductor clamps to ensure wiring is retained securely • Double insulated.

Honeywell Home T6360B Room Thermostat Wired - 230V

At the moment, if you go to work for 9am, do you turn your heating OFF or do you simply turn it down? Once the room has reached the chosen temperature, the thermostat will turn the heating off, preventing overheating and reducing energy consumption. Karen, in case you don't know what they are, you 'program' them to give you the temps you want at the times you want them. To view the purposes they believe they have legitimate interest for, or to object to this data processing use the vendor list link below.We and our partners use data for Personalised ads and content, ad and content measurement, audience insights and product development. Of course, a step further up is to go 'Nest'-type which also gives you phone App control, but that's prob a step too far? For general purpose control of gas valves, zone valves, circulation pumps, ventilators, boilers etc. However, although straight-forward, it won't be a 'take-off-the-old-one-and-shove-the-new-one-on' replacement. That does sound like a faulty 'stat all right, tho' I guess other things could cause similar symptoms (tho' not sure what!