For heavy wax buildup present from other products, allow to stand 5 minutes before wiping. Repeat if necessary. Our table is solid oak and well used by us and the kids for dinner and homework and crafts. Its also by a window so was a bit sun faded in places. I just give away my models to anyone in the neighborhood who might want them. I keep a few that I really like on the outer edges of my built-in bookshelf and on one little table I bought to display my larger ships (now hosting my Cutty Sark) but I don't have much room for permanent display so I just add what I like at the moment and give away ones that I've enjoyed long enough. It's the process I enjoy ... learning how to get better at this hobby that keeps me in it. Not that I don't enjoy looking at some of what I've built, I do for those that turn out alright - not so much the one's I've messed up . Thanks for the very helpful responses. I really appreciate the suggestions/recommendations that you have given me. Just to be clear, I'm neither griping about the product nor it's use. I'm just saying I have no idea if the newer versions are the same recipe as the original or not, and I've moved on to other products, not wanting to take a chance.

For those who've been using Future/Revive It for gloss applications on their projects, it's apparently been confirmed that Johnson & Johnson has discontinued the product. A friend on a scale modeler group got this reply from J&J: I’m using this as a gloss coat for my models like Onego or Klear. Works a treat. So if you’re searching the net looking for Klear. This is the gear.

I should mention that I have never had an issue with "Future" discoloring or doing anything bad from passing time. I have an old bottle, not quite the one John (Keavdog) posted, but mine is from 2013, and at least clearly states "with Future Shine" on it. It does have some minor additives and so it is not pure polyurethane, it is made with acrylic polymers, so same "family" as polyurethane). Well, those ingredients show that one has a whole bunch of different stuff in there than the other. Even if they go by different names, there are many more listed. Not to mention that the front label says nothing about "Future" on there. So it sounds like two different products, the latest being "new and improved" (my words, not theirs), probably like the FSM forums are new and improved... Is the bottle I bought today a waste of money? I am almost out of my old bottle of Pledge and went to Walmart for a new bottle. I just happened to notice the ingredients (on the inside of the label) are quite a bit different from the old bottle. Many more ingredients/chemicals. Ive used Future as my go to gloss since the mid 90s when I started noticing decals solution interaction with Testors rattlecan stuff. I started to see stains/tide marks under the topcoat from where the solutions had been. Light at first, but visible enough to be noticed. So then I tried Micro Gloss and Micro Flat. The gloss worked great, but the flat coat gave me problems and I did not have the patience at the time to work thru the problems, so I ditched the stuff, then switched to Future and various bottled flat/matt and satin/semi gloss coats as needed. Currently my go to flat coats are: Humbrol, Tamiya, or Future with Tamiya Flat base added.

I have plenty of Tamiya X-22 on hand so I may shoot that when my older bottle of Pledge runs out in a year or two .I resharpen blades, I reuse containers; I hang onto sprues for scratch building; I make my own sprue goo. Make my own airbrush cleaner. I clean paint jars for use in holding extra custom color mixes.

Using a dry cloth, rub along the grain of the wood. Wait 30 seconds and then wipe off excess to create a deep, clean luster. Same here. Recycling here in rural WV has declined to where it's almost non-existent in some places. We do what we can and sometimes have to drive quite a ways to drop stuff off. I was a bit wary of this at first so made sure I did a test on the underneath of my oak table first.

I still have plenty in my old, original recipe bottle too and I still dip the occasional canopy or brush on a clear acrylic here and there. Just because I'm used to isopropyl alcohol in my paint thinning experience I'll probably try that first if I end up having to use Tamiya X-22. The Johnson Future product (or any of its previous incarnations) has not been available in my country at all. After a lot of digging around online and in hardware stores here in New Zealand, I discovered that there were many floor cleaning products but actual floor polish seemed to be absent. Eventually I found one large hardware chain that sold its own brand of floor polish, so I bought some to try. In the bottle it is a milky colour, but it promised a clear shine, so I tentatively tested it on a model I was building. It was great! It dried to a clear hard finish, though not super glossy, and I've used it ever since. Pledge Floor Care is an excellent product for scale modellers to use instead of other gloss finishes by Tamiya, Gunze and the like. Although the initial outlay is high, the quantity in the bottle is enough to last a very long time. Also really good for clear plastic parts like canopies. However, I don't want to spend the committment building a kit to see it ruined by discoloration or, worse, gloppy goo or other problems that I can envision the gremlins of airbrushing foisting on me as I spray a coat of this stuff on something that's taken me months to nearly complete.

Yes, as you can see from the pictures I posted, my older bottle is exactly that - Pledge Floor Care - and it has served me well for several years. It's the newer version, Pledge Revive It that I'm worried about. I noticed that the old list of ingredients is pretty vague, whereas the new bottle is very specific. It could be that they are the same and the change was required by some new government regulation. I have a very old bottle of Future and it doesn't list any ingredients at all. X-22 can be thinned in a few ways, to include Tamiya acrylic thinner, Tamiya lacquer thinner, Mr Leveling thinner, hardware store lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol. The amount is according to what you want to accomplish. So with all that said, I generally use either hardware store lacquer thinner or DNA. And I generally thin it no less than 50-50 ( in the paint world that means 100% reduction or equal volumes of each). I generally don't thin it more than 125% which is a bit more than 50/50 thinner to paint. It's something you play around with and get a handle on doing for yourself. Multiple floor surfaces can benefit from the protection of Pledge Floor Finish. This product is safe to use on no-wax, vinyl, linoleum, rubber tile, terrazzo, and masonry floors. It also works on ceramic tile, stone, flagstone, slate, and sealed wood floors, as long as those surfaces have been sealed. With Pledge Floor Gloss, rooms throughout your house can have protected floors with a dazzling finish.I have a bottle of Future left over from years ago. Perhaps I didn't apply it well, but it ended up yellowing my Saturn V, and looking generally dingy those years ago. What people have to be careful is to not to end up getting floor wax, as some have, and then go think/mention that it doesn't work. Pledge Floor Care is an excellent product for scale modellers to use instead of other gloss finishes by Tamiya, Gunze and the like. Although the initial outlay is high, the quantity in the bottle is enough to last a very long time. Also really good for clear plastic parts like canopies.