Originally I was thinking the rectangular heat exchanger would mesh with the tapered hood before the flue pipe, but after measuring that would be pretty hard geometry to fabricate to. They give me a way to monitor the intensity of the fire in the stove, as I can see fire shooting up the stove pipe and into the heat exchanger. Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. This product can be used in the instance of a power outage by removing the back panel that covers the wiring so the wires do not get damaged with the enclosed heat.

Perhaps a intercooler off a turbo installation with the micro fins removed as they have somewhat thicker core tubes with more strength. Between burning the same amount of wood (with the same amount of available BTU's) - I would think a fireplace would allow the most BTU's up the chimney, the heat exchanger the 2nd, and a proper stove the least amount of heat up the chimney = most heat in the room. And since it's so thermally efficient, you wouldn't necessarily need to put it right in the fire; if you had a wood stove for example, you could figure out ways to rig it to the outside of the stove. I could put any number of ports through the heat exchanger, then cap them off on the top with another box that goes to a single larger pipe. I was thinking of having the front of the box able to be opened so it can easily be checked/serviced, but I'd like to have some idea of how long it might last before starting trying to build anything.they didn't have fire regs back then and the pipes went through oversize 50mm square holes and the roof flashing was thi through cedar shingles. Old masonry stacks were often laid with "sand-lime" mortar, and over the years, the acid vapors in wood smoke will "eat" or dissolve the lime in the sand-lime mortar, leaving the mortar very thin or even crumbling or gone altogether, leaving "holes" in the stack hidden behind the wood walls in your house. All of the products offered by Cheminées Poujoulat have been rigorously tested in every configuration by the CERIC Laboratory to ensure they meet highest standards (Building Regulation Document J - Amendments to Approved Documents). In years past I've seen some crazy setups using ribbon metal around the flue pipe with a fan box to distribute warm air to the space. The only experience I have with a heat exchanger was one in a local church that was in the top of a very old oil furnace.

When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission, which supports our community. If you're not at close to 400° at chimney top, there isn't much more you can get without gumming up your flue in no time flat. Ive spent some ammount of time looking for some kind of 'retro-fit' exchanger to fit on a flue, but havent found anything yet. A smaller unit could be built with 4" inlets, and used in place on the chimney stack of a gas burning hot water heater.Thank you for checking out my Instructable, If you are considering building a project similar to this, DO IT! I have yet to purchase some steel to get going on this, but I may draw the whole thing up in Solidworks to see what it may look like before making sparks. Even better I've used no kerosene, burned only wood, which comes free to me via the woods out back and pallets picked out of dumpsters.

The advantage of an "airtight" woodstove (not really "airtight," since it needs combustion air, but not as wasteful as a fireplace) is that you can choke down the combustion air when you go to bed, and it won't suck as much warm air out of your house. Once the core is secured in place, I applied a bead high temperature fireplace mortar to all of the welded seams.Be careful using to much water to test for leaks, water causes cracked welds because there is hydrogen in water.

I wouldn't want to move that from the room my gas boiler is in though (bathroom, in the cupboard which previously housed bath towels and the like, I have just enough room left now for one shelf only 7. Rods can be whatever you feel comfortable with welding because it's going to rust out in the HAZ first anyway. In regards to the latter point - getting the exhaust ports through the heat exchanger down to a single pipe - the question is how to do that.The fire-tube HX in the flue gases seem like the most user-friendly for the reason of cleaning and for durability. As to material and weight - you are correct on weight adding to the challenge, however I have a couple ideas on how to deal with it.