Similarly, the 'Bypass' loops in the main ovals will only have power when the points are switched into a particular path (route). Thus, trains can be parked stationary in those 'Bypass' loops when the adjacent points are set away from that path (route). Your description of the controller is a bit vague. Three step controller? If this is a Hornby product can you advise what the product R number is. If not a Hornby controller then what brand and model?

Note also the Yellow Dots in my schematic. These represent Hornby R920 Insulated Rail Joiners. Do not omit to fit these at the locations shown. They are required to give electrical separation between the different sections of the layout controlled by the different controllers. If I could hazard a summary whilst avoiding Marmite (where I come from, the liking and promoting of Vegemite is mandatory):Points - insulfrogs do and will work for many but have the risk of stopping by short wheel base locos at low speeds particularly if points are not dead flat (need pinning in the middle). Remember the different geometry of some when thinking of mix and match.

I have modified a R.487 to use with DCC, by carefully removing the clip base, which is held on with three small eyelets (rivets). In fact, Tri-ang used to reccommend that, if interference was caused by a layout, extra power clips were fitted (with no wiring). This put more capacitors across the power feed.... With modern tv (satellite or cable, and uhf) the capacitors are really a waste of space, but as they are about 10 for a penny, they are still installed on a just-in-case basis. For example, take Controller 3 in the schematic below. The power connection location is positioned such that it feeds into all the 'Toe' ends of the cascaded points creating the central sidings and TT area. Whichever siding that has the points set for that route will have power. All the other sidings will be electrically dead. This ensures that any 'parked' locos on those other sidings will not move in error. The Insulated Rail Joiners located at the 'throat' of those sidings ensures that Controller 3 can shunt locos within that siding area without impacting upon locos on the ovals. Instead of a fixing peg [made of your own design and implementation] you can use the X8011 terminals I mentioned earlier.So, am I safe to run the locos as normal, or was it a mistake to get the DCC power clips? I find it hard to believe a connector is doing this! I've read a little about DCC power and how it might fool a multimeter - is that all it is?