However, in the age of big-box hardware stores, there are definitely opportunities to make your own specialty tool and save yourself some major cash. Our experience is that the syringes with this product don't last forever with the interaction with suspension fluid and we would advise you to clean it out thoroughly after use. The syringe can be exchanged for a vacuum brake bleeding tool. The syringes on the professional version last much longer, so if you are stripping a lot of forks it is a better buy.

Although I did this on a set of Kayaba UD Forks from a Yamaha WR400 ... I figure the basic principles will work on any fork. Ideally you’ll have used a section with a properly flat bottom, in which case you should be able to just drive straight down with a ‘slide hammer’ action (read wanking ), if it’s not properly flat at the bottom, you’ll need to keep turning the fork after each drive to ensure it stays evenly pushed down.The seal will start to make a distinct ‘metal tap’ sound as it seats against the metal of the fork upper. On UD forks the fork stanchion itself has the aluminium wheel thingy (technical term) at the bottom ... so you cannot just slip over a full seal or pipe. Laser Fork Oil Level Setting Tool Setting the fluid level in front forks accurately is critical to the safe handling of your bike and this tool makes it a piece of cake. Make sure the fork is pulled apart ¾ of the way, and wrap the lower fork with the paper, and tape in place. Then push them to the bottom of the fork and tape in place to stop them sliding down and getting in the way.

Reassemble fork spring, damper rod and top cap / Refill fork with new oil as per instructions in your manual. Remove forks from yokes and loosen the top cap on the forks – Do not actually remove the top cap at this point. At this point it is important to note / write down how each part fits together – As you will be cleaning them all later on. It did take a proper tug (oooer missus) ... thats why I mentiond to "not be afraid to give it some abuse" (or words to that effect).Fork Oil Level Setting Tool Setting the fluid level in front forks accurately is critical to the safe handling of your bike and this tool makes it a piece of cake. Each fork type needs certain settings of the damping, oil, etc done. Eg: Some forks (Kayaba) require you to loosen off the damper before tightening the top cap. Rough guide is that if you can clearly see the top and bottom of the spring clip recess, then the seal is in. Gaffa tape is like "the force" - it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together.

I am sure I am missing something really obvious here and that you will point it out and I will go "doh" ... so let the "silky is a muppet" comments begin But, there is no need. Follow these simple instructions and its as easy as changing an oil filter ! If I can do it, then anyone can!It will feel as if it is catching on something and is unnerving at first – But this is simply the internal bushes/washer hitting the fork seal. I have made a small video showing the 'hard bit' ... driving the new fork seal into place ... which shows how easy it is using home made tools. As you will see in the video – the total time spent actually driving the seal into place is no more than 2 minutes. (Studying the video again and it is actually under 1min 30 seconds per seal)

Rather than cutting it in half, in the past I’ve just ground down the outside and inside. The outside is fairly easy with a bench grinder – just push it against the grinder wheel enough that the seal spins fairly slowly with the grinder wheel still spinning fast. Then use a die grinder on the inside while clamped.Clean forks thoroughly before taking forks apart – This makes it easier to stop mud and grit getting into the fork internals when they are apart. Make sure that it is slightly less than half of one side (obviously) so that you can easily put it around the fork leg.