Her family were from (more latterly) southern Scotland, working class folk from around Paisley. But (having started to trace my family tree) elements of the family originated further north. I’ve been to Scotland lots of course (and lived in Paisley for a year or so aged about 10), yet I’ve never been to any of the Islands before.

Stac Dhòmhnaill Chaim, a fortified promontory 500 yds south of the bothy, was built in the 17th century by local hero and clan chief, Donald Cam Macaulay. The lodge itself was overgrown with Rhododendron bushes.. very much like some occasional parts of the moors where I live (Marsden, Yorkshire). Victorian landowners had a penchant for planting these shrubs near estate houses. Most notably, these included three spirits, each of which received the maximum 3 star accreditation from the 355 judges, who attended 86 days of socially-distanced judging in London and Dorset, and included food writer Xanthe Clay and Kavi Thakrar, founder of Dishoom. By the end of the 1920s, rumours about the bothy being haunted were spread by head stalker Finlay MacIntosh and novelist Ian Macpherson in an attempt to frighten away unwelcome visitors. Over the years the anecdotes were embellished, with various accounts of a poltergeist moving furniture and the mysterious heavy tramp of hob-nailed boots outside the bothy. Ghost stories tend to fire the imagination, and many who visit the bothy leave feeling slightly spooked. Don't let that put you off though - this is one of our favourite bothies, or indeed, shelters of any kind, anywhere in Scotland. This year, Scotland received a constellation of stars at the Guild of Fine Foods’ Great Taste Awards 2021.But overall I would say (for me) that it was challenging. And beautiful. And remote. And quiet. And soul-stirring. And fun. And challenging. You get the picture. That was a word that was going around my head on the top of most of the peaks. Stunning. Absolutely stunning. The island of Rum easily rivals its famous neighbour Skye for scenery, yet it’s much quieter and has a real off-the-grid atmosphere. If you really want to get away from crowds of tourists, a visit to Rum should be at the top of your list of places to go. The cheery sight of its bright, whitewashed exterior has brought relief to many a weary traveller, and there are numerous tales in the log book of dangerous river crossings and arduous tramping over the unforgiving terrain to get here. Concealed in a small clearing within the extensive Eskmuirdale forest, on the northern side of the picturesque Eskdale Valley, Greensykes is a great place to escape the relentless pace of the modern world for a while, much like its near neighbour the Samye Ling Tibetan monastery located just over the hill.

I, with a couple of the other guys took that route. But it still required a steady foot and a good grip in some places, so getting my phone out a la tourist just didn’t happen 🙂 While the entire range can be broken down into short sections, the majority of people attempt the classic Cuillin Ridge Walk (link to the Walk Highlands guide) which crosses 5 peaks over 13 miles. Visiting Tips But after Trollaval I had basically lost my nerve with some of the exposed parts particularly on Askival and my legs were wiped… there’s only so much adrenalin they could take. Doh. Now it has reverted to a wild wood as it were, with shrubs / trees growing through the lodge windows and doors.

Wildlife watching. Rum is owned and managed by Nature Scot who looks after the nature reserve that’s home to a huge variety of animals. Longer walks through Rum’s beautiful surroundings are possible thanks to wild camping being permitted on the island as well as access to two bothies in Guirdhil and Dibidil.

The road to Kilmory is around 12 miles return while the road to Harris is around 15 miles return, which potentially puts either destination out of reach of walkers but is certainly possible for those on two wheels. The Isle of Rum is a paradise for hill walkers and mountaineers alike. If you are here for a few hours or a few days there are walks to suit all abilities, but remember to BE PREPARED. Rum, while wonderful, can have savage weather (so have suitable clothing, footwear and navigation aids); has very rough terrain and in season midges are a considerable nuisance so please ensure thorough preparation and take suitable precautions. Like pretty much everywhere else on the west coast of Scotland, Rum can be plagued by fierce clouds of biting midges. Once the rest of the group (you know, the fit, fearless section) met me at Dibidil we pitched the fly sheets and sorted out a bivvy spot for the night.Location: Northern Highlands - LAT/LONG 58.2281, -4.9468, NC 271 305, 11m, LR Map 15, Explorer Map 442 For eager baggers there is the incentive to complete the round of the White Mounth (1051m) and Broad Cairn (998m).