You might want your fitted bodice to have separate cups. Here’s the first version of the bra-top. Basically it’s very similar to the previous design, it’s just that in addition you draw the bra styleline.

How To Sew Your Own Corset - Sewing From Home How To Sew Your Own Corset - Sewing From Home

For applications that require a fast cure, you may want to consider cyanoacrylate adhesives. UV adhesives can be used for applications that require more time for example, where components need to be accurately aligned. However, many plastic bonding UV adhesives cure with normal room lighting which means parts will need to be shielded. The boning of choice for couture houses from the golden age, right up to the present day (and I supply many of them with steel boning, never plastic), is steel. Why? Steel boning is more widely available than decent plastic boning and it is much more flexible for curvy areas such as over the bust. Also, steel does not degrade in the same way that plastic does over time, and what I mean by this is that spiral steel retains it's original properties for a very long time, plastic does not. So although we all know that once plastic is made, it can never be 'unmade', the properties which made it useful when new, will degrade over a relatively short period of time. Therefore, apart from the other environmental considerations,plastic boning will not produce an heirloom garment. Starting from the most simple method: sew the boning directly to the garment, centering it over the seam. Note that the stitches will easily become wonky because of the nylon rods if you’re not careful. In fact, boning was less prevalent in corsets than most people think; coding was used just as much as boning, alongside other methods. When corsets did have boning, it was rarely as rigid as we assume. Basically you’re sewing a flat felled seam here. Fold and stitch the larger seam allowance so that the boning will fit into the casing.For example, whalebone is perhaps the most rigid and well-known boning method of the era. Despite its name, it’s not made out of actual bone, but of keratin, which is the same material that makes up our nails. Like our nails, it becomes more pliable under heat and moisture. When placed inside corsets (which are right beside warm skin), this material naturally follows the shape of the body, regardless of the wearer’s body type. But if you want to make a longer bodice, it’s not that much different. Just follow the side seam and dart shapes.” Like any type of clothing, corsets have been through many evolutions throughout history. From the stays of the Regency era, to the hourglass waistline of the Victorian era, to even the boyish silhouette of the 1920s, the design of your corset depends heavily on the era it was worn. So first sew the seam normally, then trim one side of the seam allowance to 0.5cm or 1/4in. This would be the side where the casing will be created. Starting with the middle seam, sew a seam on either side of the seam line, as close to the line as possible. When sewing these first seams, be sure to proceed slowly, ensuring that each portion is properly aligned.

Clear Plastic Boning - Etsy UK

You might think that a fitted bodice will stay up by itself, because it’s fitted. But that’s not quite true. When it comes to making corsets, the first thing you will need to be concerned with is boning. Boning refers to rigid rods or strips that are sewn inside a bodice. Boning creates structure, form, and rigidity. It’s common in corsets, but other pieces of clothing you would also find boning are hoop skirts. Modern boning is often made out of plastic and nylon, but higher-quality corsets are often made out of steel.Ultimately this is a matter of personal preference and intended use. Feel free to ask us if you're not sure which is right for you! And if you're sewing your own stays with our patterns, you can easily substitute 6mm synthetic whalebone in place of 1/4" steels. When deciding on how many seams your bodice will have, take into account that each of the seams will give you the possibility to insert boning. However, you can add more channels also in between the seams. Cut out your outer fabric pieces. These pieces should be mirrored, allowing you to double the fabric and cut two pieces at once. Keep a generous seam allowance for the boning; ½ inches is best.

boning should I use Couture dress foundations - which boning should I use

We’re always open to your suggestions, so please get in touch if there are any tutorials you would like to see, or machines covered.We're pleased to be able to offer more options to the historical costume and reenacting communities! Cover the ends with little pieces of fabric so that the nylon won’t poke out from the bodice. Another way is to melt the nylon rod tips with flame until they become round. It is important to select an adhesive that will have the highest bond strength when it comes to bonding plastic. The following factors will need to be considered: You can also skip the interfacing, but it makes the garment sturdier. I’ve added boning, creating the casing from the seam allowances, without interfacing. So the boning will be enough by itself to maintain the bodice up, if that’s what you were wondering. 🙂

Synthetic Whalebone (German Boning) -6 sizes | Boning Synthetic Whalebone (German Boning) -6 sizes | Boning

However, for those who want to develop corsets that last, it’s best to choose steel boning. Steel boning may be available in both rigid and spiral boning. Both have their uses; spiral boning is often for curved seams, while rigid boning is for straight seams. However, spiral boning will work well for any type of seam.Some sturdier types of plastic boning can take the place of steel in a dress foundation and do the same job with the same effect. To make these, you’ll need a basic bodice pattern. We’ll eliminate the ease, so the less ease the basic bodice pattern has to start with, the better. MMAs (methyl methacrylate adhesives) have a much higher peel strength and temperature resistance compared to epoxy adhesives. MMAs can be used to bond thermoplastics including ABS, PVC (rigid and flexible), acrylic and polycarbonates.