Assuming a stem length of 110 mm, a – 6 degree rise will give you a saddle to handlebar drop of 57 mm. For the same stem length, going by a -17 degree step, your saddle-to-bar drop will increase by 21 mm. Stems between 100-120mm of length are known as long stems and anything below 90mm is considered as short stems. Generally on a road bike stems tend not to be shorter than 90mm and longer than 130mm. Racers will want the longest, lowest stem they can get away with and still be in control. This stretched out position will be better for aerodynamics. Some prefer light weight while some will sacrifice low weight for strength and rigidity, especially so for larger riders and sprinters. Found on some mountain bikes and also some drop-bar machines such as Giant’s cyclocross bikes. 1 1/8in steerer, 35mm bar clamp

In contrast, a short stem is usually the best option for competitive road riders. Handling is more compliant and the rider sits in a more aggressive and aerodynamic position. A short stem requires more precise movements, which can feel twitchy to inexperienced riders. Hybrid Most bar clamps are 4-bolt pattern which as well as being stiffer also helps spread out the pressure of the clamp across a greater area on the bar, which is something that carbon bar users will appreciate. Material An adjustable stem is worthwhile if you want to be as upright and comfortable as possible. However, the adjustability comes with added weight, and an extreme upright position is appropriate for short distances only. For those riding thirty minutes or more, a slightly bent body position is advantageous for muscle function and wind resistance. Cost of Stems Road cyclists have very different priorities to mountain bikers. Likewise competitive racers have different preferences to those who ride recreationally. RoadIf you are an experienced racer, most likely you have been through a bike fit process and know the length of the stem you need. The numbers are +/- because the stem can be installed to angle up or down. To get to the next level of detail, the actual rise from horizontal depends on the head tube angle. Also, if you make significant changes in the rise (or drop), you might need to adjust the length. But a change of +/- 2 degrees would change the reach in terms of a couple mm. Fork steerer tubes are almost universally 1 1/8” at the top – even if the fork is 1.5” oversize at the fork crown – so most stem manufacturers don’t even quote this clamp figure. Mountain bike stems are typically around 50-80mm long, while road bike stems are longer, starting at around 80mm and extending to 120mm or longer as the frame size increases. Gravel bike stems typically sit somewhere between the two.

When we talk about stem standards here, we’re primarily talking about compatibility with the streerer tube on your bike (measured in inches), but also the handlebar clamp (measured in millimetres). Steering is also affected by stem length; too long and the steering can become slow and wayward while too short and the steering can be twitchy and unnerving. Alloy stems are relatively cheap and light weight so they are the most common model available. Carbon stems are lighter and can be incredibly stiff but they’re also way more expensive so usually favoured by racers or weight weenies. a right angle'd stem, would be horizontal if the steer tube were perpendicular. This would rise a little from horizontal when mounted on a typical angled head/ steer tube. Would not change if reversed (flipped).

Although bike stems may look simple, there’s a significant amount of complexity in choosing the right one for your bike, largely due to the bike industry’s custom of developing multiple standards. Old-school bikes had a quill stem. This was an inverted L-shape, with the shaft of the stem slotting down into the top of the fork’s steerer tube, and secured by an expander bolt with an (in most cases) Allen key head at its top. Thankfully they are easy to replace and there’s an overwhelming choice available so you can fine tune your position quite easily. Length Bike stems look like a standard equipment without any science to it, however, they are highly influential when it comes to comfort and control. The wrong stem length will not only make it difficult to reach for the handlebars, it will also destabilize the steering and affect body position on the bike.

The majority of riders will appreciate a fairly low angle ie. less than 10° as this gives a fairly neutral position with just a low rise. Leisure riders will appreciate a more upright position. Racers will try to get a low as possible for better aerodynamics. Once you choose the appropriate type of stem for your bike, it is important to determine which clamp dimensions are compatible with your steerer tube and handlebars. Steerer Tube Clamp Diameter The rise (angle of stem from fork to bar) has quite a large effect. Rise is quoted in + or – degrees as this determines the angle the stem rises or falls from the fork steerer. The higher the degrees (+) the more upright your position will be. Or if inverting the stem, the lower you will be. Stems are labeled in two different ways: either (1) the actual angle, or (2) in terms of their difference from 90 degrees. I guess, the numbers are based on mounting the stem on a perpendicular tube, but they have nothing to do with head tube angle on your bike. There’s no hard and fast rule for choosing a stem, it’s mainly whatever works best for you. Two identical riders with identical bikes may need a different stem so just make sure whatever you have works best for your needs.

Having the right stem on your bike can make all the difference in comfort and handling. Changing this small part is an easy way to tailor your bike to fit you better and meet your specific needs. You can also upgrade your stem to save weight or customize its colour. Types of Stems Bike stems range between negative 10 to positive 17 degrees. When a stem has a positive degree, it is called a “rise”. The stem with a negative degree is commonly referred to as “having a drop”. The higher the stem rise is, the more upright your position will be. Alternately, the lower the drop of the stem is, the more aggressive your bike will feel. If you are a regular rider, you may appreciate a neutral position with a slight rise in stem. Around 6 to 7 degrees of stem rise and a stem length that complements your position would suit you the best. The stem rise or the stem angle is basically the rise between handlebars and stem. It is usually measured in degrees. Stem rise affects the bike positioning and your reach to the handlebars. The higher degree of rise, the more upright your position will be. Alternatively, an inverted stem rise lowers the handlebar’s height in relation to the ground and keeps you in a lower position.

As a result, fine-tuning the stem can be one way to tweak the handling of your bike – but remember, your stem doesn’t exist in isolation and changing the stem length will also impact your position on the bike. The standard size for most modern mountain and road bikes, with typical lengths of between 35mm and 80mm for MTB stems, 80mm and 100mm for gravel bikes and 90mm to 140mm for road bikes. 1 1/4in steerer, 31.8mm bar clamp A shorter stem will reduce the reach and provide a more upright position, which might help if you’re feeling too stretched out. On the flip side, if you’re feeling cramped on the bike, using a slightly longer stem will increase the reach.Stem length is one of a number of factors, along with head tube angle and fork rake, that affects a bike’s handling. As a rule of thumb, on a road bike you shouldn’t run a stem much shorter than 90mm or much longer than 130mm. If you need a stem length beyond those extremes, your bike frame is the wrong size. Sorry! Rise