Wash the majority of the model’s skin with a 1:3 Contrast Aethermatic Blue/Contrast Medium mix, leaving the extremities of the various limbs (arms, legs and tail) untouched. You can vary how far down you go towards the ends to vary up a little. After this, we go to our base coating, which is pretty simple. I hit the flesh with Rakarth Flesh for a nice pale gray tone. I go for Naggaroth Night for my purples, Leadbelcher for the silvers, and Zandri Dust for my bones. I start dark on my little evil Drukhari tubes all over the model with Dark Angel Green and hit the tabard with Bugmans Glow . Finally, the pants get a coat of Dryad Bark . The end result is a nice jumping off point for where we want to go with this model. Spot detail on aprons with Blood for the Blood God – get a beat up brush, and just sort of smear it around Start highlighting the majority of the armour in Citadel Mournfang Brown. This is where the process becomes a bit repetitive and this step is the most time consuming because you’re painting most of the model but being careful about leaving the previous stage showing at the bottom parts of the armour panel.

Optional) Paint the armor with Satin Varnish to give it a nice sheen (pure gloss varnish is too shiny)! Bone is a wash of sepia over the zenithal, followed by agrax and then thinned wyldwood. The highlights are morghast and ushabti My aim with this project was to mimic the box art but not try to go full Heavy Metal on the thing. Be’lakor himself ended up taking about fourteen hours to complete, and the base another nine. This is a great model, full of interesting details. The chainmail and skulls on the tabard are cool as hell, and the whole thing is hanging on rings through his flesh. I could see spending another twenty hours polishing it up into a really nice display or competition piece. Paints Used Leadbelcher basecoat then Ironbreaker layer on the metals – gun, chest eagle, and in this case the soft bits of the armour Then for once procrastination paid off, as what did we get later that year? Contrast paints, and with that I was sloshing away like a mad ham.This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. Once the chipping is where you want, its crucial that you seal thoroughly with varnish, otherwise washes and later paint layers can reactivate the chipping medium. In my case I am using either Vallejo Mecha Matte or Premium Air Matte, and I am not quite sure how other finishes will affect how the the scheme turns since there are a lot of washes involved. Do note, that while I describe doing this with a airbrush you could probably do it by hand or rattle can, its just that it might take a lot longer. Base Coats – Its almost all washes baby One layer of Khorne Red and then another layer of Mephiston Red on the red bits (left gauntlet, shoulderpad) Thin layers of Basalt Grey were used to blend the shadows and highlights, smoothing the transitions. Step 3: Stipple Citadel Ushabti Bone over Zandri Dust bands. I did slightly less of these than in the previous Zandri Dust layer.

Wash the wings with Aethermatic Blue. I’ve done more playing with contrast since I did this model (see also HTPE: Yncarne) and if I was doing this again, I’d have done a gradual blend outwards from Akhelian Green to give a better effect.

Armor

Now with my glaze of Pallid Wych Flesh ready, I go over the raised muscle of the skin to make it stand out against the rest of the flesh, but not enough to make it too much of a bright white color to overwhelm the Rakarth Flesh. Metal: Scale 75 Victorian Brass, Citadel Reichland Flesh wash, Citadel Runefang Silver spot highlight.

It helps to paint your heads separately no matter what you do, but this is especially important for your skin, because you don’t want to get flesh tones on your nice finished armor color. For the flesh tones, I wanted something a bit greyer and more inhuman than your standard Cadian Fleshtone. I go into more detail in the HTPE: Human Skin article, but for Caracalla, the skin is VGA Dwarf Skin mixed with a mid/slightly dark grey. To highlight, I mixed in more of the dwarf skin, though the entire color range I used has a good proportion of grey in it. Instead of a flesh wash, I used diluted nuln oil to wash the skin. If you need to shade the colourshift, be very ginger and only fill the recesses, as they can react unpredictably to washes/shades. And here we are! Deamonettes attached to the mirror and some mud on the base to match my army. Before someone goes pointing out that I mis-assembled part of the front left coil of the mirror, yes, I’m aware. It just goes to show that you should always take your time with assembly and clean up because you never know what level of effort you’re going to put in. Better to be safe than sorry. Next, I laid down some basic skin tones, ranging from Model Color Royal Purple (shadow), to Pink Horror (midtone), up to Kislev Flesh (highlight). It’s pretty desaturated at this point, but the gist is there.Time for the wings. Here I’m just going to get away with drybrushing. I do progressively lighter mixes of Celestra Gray and Xereus Purple here, which helps give me a much more muted tone on the wings. Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look).

I was tired of cleaning up after myself, so I decided to adopt this little fella in the hopes that maybe the floor would be a little less messy. The good news is that it worked great; my floors are bare. The bad news is that he’s also eaten the leather couch, three of the neighborhood cats, and both of my legs. “Rippy” the Ripper. Credit: Kevin Genson For the flesh of the arms on more mutated hybrids, where the purple fades into blue, wet blend the Genstealer Flesh Mix with Night Lords Blue. Alternatively, glaze Night Lords Blue down the arm, increasing in intensity towards the hands. coat d'arms match the OLD citadel colours so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, Thin down some Mournfang Brown aggressively, then put it on the cloaks everywhere but the recesses. It should be so thin that it goes on sort of transparent – you’re really just using this to smooth out the Contrast effect so it looks niceDecorative Metal (Icons, Leaders’ Weapons): – Base with Balthasar Gold. – Wash with Agrax Earthshade. – Drybrush with Hashut Copper. – Lightly Drybrush with Sycorax Bronze, focused on the edges. Prime everything in Citadel Wraithbone (I used the rattle can, but (air)brushing it on would probably be fine too). Step 1: Base coats