Attach wire into the Channel A and Channel B slots on the motor shield and attach the ends of the motors. You do not have to solder these yet, it will be easier if they are just twisted around the positive and negative tabs for easy removal in future steps. Acquire fabric of prefered choice. We used green fabric to make it look like somewhat more snake looking. Measure the size of balsa wood base, sketch it on fabric. This step is not adding anything new to the arduino, but marking the end of the electrical portion of the project and beginning the materials portion. From here on out, all the pieces we mentioned separately in previous steps need to be brought together and starting to create a cohesive project. We give a picture of everything we have added to the breadboard and the arduino setup. We also have the finished code that we will be using to control the snake from here on out. Once it is all the way on, I use the string on both sides to hoist the carbon fiber all the way into to the end of the vacuum tube. I tie a knot here to prevent slipping.

You don't have permission to access "http://www.argos.co.uk/browse/toys/electronic-toys-and-robots/c:30388/brands:zuru-robo-alive/" on this server. So if you have the servo shield, solder on the screw terminal; two rows of headers where the 6V and GND from the battery are connected. Solder on male headers so it will mount in your seeeduino (or arduino) mega. I'm using the seeeduino again because i had it around, and because it is smaller so it fits better into the skin tube (the protective outer layer).

To get started, we used low-voltage motors with tape on the end of each axle to test whether our code was working or not. In the beginning, it is more important to get a prototype working, which can be expanded upon to get a final product. The motors we used in this step were not the final motors we used, but they worked the same and allowed us to work on the project until we could find motors that were better suited for our needs. In this step we will be setting up a blinking LED, similar to this instructable tutorial. Though this is a simple step, it might be useful to learn more information about how the setup works, as we will not be going through specifics in this step. Insert this into all four of the holes on the servo motor. Note that the rubber has a flat side. This side should be facing outwards.

Our snake will contain three groups of LEDs, each with 6-7 lights on each strand. To create groups of LEDs, it is the same process as creating a single group with only one LED in it. In our snake we used Pin 5, Pin 6, and Pin 7 to control the different strands of the LEDs. Also to save space on our breadboard, we connected each LED group to the same resistor that then connected to ground. The team created the robot to mimic the snakes’ movements. They say that compared to robot snakes from other studies, their creation is more stable than all but one, and came close to matching a real snake’s speed. Items that are not available in store will take 3-5 working days (excluding weekends and bank holidays) to be delivered to your nominated store. We recommend gluing the hook part to wood, because it is much easier to sew the loop part of velcro into fabric. The vibration motor will need to be as long as the snake itself so it will be able to rattle the tail.

Just string the other piece of string through. Leave about 10 inches of string on the inside, and a little more on the outside. This string acts solely as a tether. You can eventually lengthen it by attaching another string to it so that you can have a longer tether. I'm using one button for the water pump (12V battery) and one for the arduino / servos (6V battery). The water pump cannot be turned on unless the snake is in the water or the pump will dry up. So I turn on the snake first then turn on the pump. See the next step for attaching the water pump.