At the University of Colorado in Boulder, she fell in love with Jerry Solomon, now a sports agent married to former Olympic ice-skater Nancy Kerrigan. They eventually transferred to U.C.L.A. together and Pittman earned a degree in art history. They split a year later. “She was always into climbing, but it seems to have become an all-consuming thing,” says Solomon. “She was always an ambitious person, and I don’t just mean about climbing mountains.” Unexpectedly, a massive cornice broke loose from the Annapurna’s Western Wall and fell down the 800 m (2,600 ft) long couloir. The avalanche swept Moro down the mountainside, eventually leaving him just above their tent at Camp I (5,200 m or 17,100 ft). Remarkably, Moro managed to remain near the top of the avalanche debris and, after a few minutes, extricated himself from the snow. It is widely hailed as one of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history, having been performed single-handedly and without oxygen, by someone who has only recently returned from Everest’s summit. In the book, Boukreev offers his perspective on the ill-fated expedition and provides insight into the challenges and risks involved in high-altitude mountaineering. He recounts his heroic efforts in rescuing stranded climbers during a violent snowstorm and emphasizes the importance of personal responsibility and preparedness in such treacherous environments. One of the most amazing rescues in mountaineering history performed single-handedly a few hours after climbing Everest without oxygen... [11] Controversy [ edit ]

Jon Krakauer (42) – journalist on assignment from Outside magazine; an accomplished technical climber, but had no experience in climbing peaks over 8,000m

Who was Anatoli  Boukreev

Rush for Everest glory, records begin". The Hindustan Times. 20 May 2013. Archived from the original on 22 May 2013 . Retrieved 20 May 2013. He relocated to Alma-Ata in Kazakhstan so that he could have access to the Tian Shan mountain range and in 1985 he became a part of the Kazakhstani mountaineering team, allowing him to work as a commercial guide throughout the ‘90s. Klev Schoening (38) – Pete's nephew and a former US national downhill ski racer; no 8,000m experience

Boukreev hailed from Korkino, situated in the Soviet Union. Coming from humble beginnings, he belonged to the Narod, the working class. While he was young, his parents faced significant financial challenges. According to Krakauer, the debate “raises the question ‘What are you doing on this mountain if you can’t get yourself down?’ There’s only so much you can ask of a guide or a sherpa.” In his view, guided climbers may have a lot of experience, but that does not necessarily translate into great ability or judgment. He emphasizes that these climbers are never without guides—“high-altitude baby-sitters”—which is very different from doing it on your own. “You don’t have the mind-set to take care of yourself. You learn to operate within a client framework, which is that other people are going to haul your loads, other people are going to look after you.” Yasuko Namba (47) – had climbed six of the Seven Summits; became the oldest woman to summit Everest at the time; died on the South Col Boukreev's climbing partner, Simone Moro, who was in the helicopter, stated that the scene of the avalanche was visible, but that weather conditions on both flights were so bad that no meaningful visual search could take place.Before returning to the U.S. after the events on Everest in 1996, Boukreev climbed the 8,516-metre (27,940ft) Lhotse, which is in proximity to Everest. He decided on a solo ascent because he hoped that in the process of climbing it he might find some inner clarity to what had just transpired on Everest. [17] In 1991 he paved out a new route on Dhaulagiri in Kazakhstan and climbed Mount Everest along the South Col Route. In addition to the members of the Adventure Consultants and Mountain Madness teams, Mike Trueman, who coordinated the rescue from Base Camp, contributed The Storms: Adventure and Tragedy on Everest (2015). Graham Ratcliffe, who climbed to the South Col of Everest on 10 May, noted in A Day to Die For (2011) that weather reports forecasting a major storm developing after 8 May and peaking in intensity on 11 May were delivered to expedition leaders. Hall and Fischer received these before their planned summit attempts on 10 May. Some of their teams summited Everest during an apparent break in this developing storm only to descend into the full force of it late on 10 May. A reviewer of Publishers Weekly commented "Like Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer's bestselling chronicle of the same expedition, this account is a gripping account of the Mountain Madness group's bid to reach the top of the world's highest peak, one that combines Boukreev's firsthand recollections and DeWalt's interviews with team members. But Boukreev and DeWalt, a freelance journalist, also offer a look at the mundane tasks associated with climbing, such as obtaining the necessary permits and equipment, and taking the reader through the complex preparations required to scale the mountain, including the establishment of various camps and the acclimatization process required for climbers to adjust to higher altitudes". [3] The New York Times - As Climbers Die, The Allure of Everest Keeps on Growing - By Tim Egan - Published: March 11, 1998

Scott Fischer, Sandy Hill Pitman, Anatoli Boukreev and other climbers on Everest trek. Göran Kropp documentary "I made it!"/Blomqvist Produktion AB Boukreev was born in Korkino, within the Soviet Union's Russian SFSR. He came from the narod, the common people, and his parents were both poor. [2] After completing high school in 1975, he attended Chelyabinsk University for Pedagogy, where he majored in physics and earned his Bachelor of Science degree in 1979. At the same time, he also completed a coaching program for cross-country skiing. It was just one of several attempting to summit Everest on the same day but not long after summiting on May 10, a blizzard swept across the mountain, stranding all climbers above the South Col. The only client fatalities that day occurred within the Adventure Consultants expedition, led by guide Rob Hall, who lost his own life while choosing to aid Doug Hansen in completing a late summit rather than helping the client descend. Boukreev reached Camp IV at 5pm, but even then there were still climbers trying to get to the top. By 5:30pm a blizzard had blown in, burying the fixed ropes that had been placed and any trail that the groups had blazed on their ascent.The reference to being hauled up like a fish rankled with Tenzing, and the "fish" simile disappeared from later accounts. Beidleman scrambled over to Danish climber Lene Gammelgaard and asked her to trade oxygen with Pittman, whose bottle was running low. He turned her oxygen flow rate to high, which feels like a jolt of adrenaline. “It was a judgment call, not preferential treatment,” he says, explaining that he had to get her moving. “Sandy was the one in the biggest trouble at that point.”