Something I need to get off my chest before I get into the nitty gritty here: I am a La Sportiva Fanboy. There, I said it; since the mid-nineties I have owned (almost) nothing but Sportiva shoes and they have always just felt right on my foot. The following review is stinking with bias, hearsay, conjecture and malice. *ahem* Further Confession of Bias: As mentioned above, the NIAD VCS maintains the Anasazi's unlined, minimal stretchCowdura (suede microfibre) upper, so doesn't stretch much at all and offers some breathability (even in this year's Summer heatwaves) and abrasion resistance. With the NIAD VCS, Five Ten has done exactly that. The medium-stiff profile and a neutral last make this a comfortable option for sport climbing and bouldering, whilst having the level of performance you would expect from a much more aggressive shoe. Five Ten started producing climbing shoes in the 80s. The Five Ten ‘Stealth Rubber’ sole was one of the grippiest shoes available and climbers around the world loved it. This success helps Five Ten to grow rapidly. Five Ten also ventured into mountain biking shoes with great success. Acquisition by Adidas Then use a pen to draw a line just in front of your big toe. Repeat for both feet and take the longer distance to determine your size.

The heel is the most apparent fit-related improvement. However, subtle changes to the lower volume last also made for a closer fit overall that still proved comfortable after hours of climbing.It was instantly comfortable enough to wear for an entire one-hour assault on a slightly overhanging granite boulder. I continued to wear the shoe at each boulder without taking them off otherwise, for a whole day. Haven’t really noticed the heel feeling any different. A bit less volume on the outside so perhaps better for smaller heel hooks.

If you are used to the old Anasazi when it was manifactured in the US then we suggest going a whole size up for the same fit** This is the secret ingredient that gives the Anasazi Lace high performance without being a downturned or aggressively pointy shoe. Of course, the tension does create the trade-off of more performance but less comfort, even when climbing on bigger footholds. I got these a half-size down from my regular street shoe in hopes I would be able to crank them down a bit when necessary and use them as the all-around boot they are purported to be. The length seems just about right however the toe box is loose on the outside edges and tight against my big toe. As the comfy-ness waned I started to hone in on just what was so weird about the way these shoes fit: the Anasazi Pros are noticeably symmetrical compared to just about everything I have ever climbed (or walked) in. The designed heel uses a moderately high tensioned rand. You will discover that once your heel pops into place – with the help of the two perfectly placed heel tabs – is held securely in place and your power is pushed forward into your toes. In truth, there have been more than one occasion on slab and vertical where the grip and edging ability of these shoes have given me the confidence to place weight on a tiny hold. These were situations I would have most likely bailed with a softer, more flexible shoe.The upgraded version of the Pinks boasts some new features compared to the old model, including an improved heel and a sole plastered with Five Ten’s famous C4 rubber. This shoe is in its element serving up technical footwork on vertical terrain.Unlike the Blancos, the Pinks have a medium-stiff sole that facilitates all-around use in your gym or local crag.