I was worried of using Panny on Oly assuming it would lose out on many things that only come with close integration of hardware and software. From your review it seems like a non issue. That being said, stopping down just a bit to F2 or F2.8 will result in the sharpest output. But sharpness will drop quite visibly by even F5.6 and certainly by F8, due to diffraction (remembering that F5.6 - F8 on Four Thirds is F11 - F22 in full-frame terms). So it's better to crank your shutter speed in bright light, rather than go beyond those apertures, if possible. Vignetting and distortion Far more important is the optical performance of the lens. Its MTF resolution remains above the critical 0.25 cycles-per-pixel level from wide-open down to about f/14 and, though some colour fringing can be found if searched for, it is not a problem in real-world images. The only serious disappointment is its rather slow and slightly noisy AF mechanism. Overheat, thanks! I am also interested in those old C-Mount lenses. I have seen some interesting things with an E-P1/2/GF1 and those lenses. I shot with the G1 inside of B&H and liked it. The EVF was no better than the E-P2’s though and from what I remember, the E-P2’s EVF is slightly better. BUT I could be wrong a as I only shot with the G1 for a few minutes. You will notice I shot this lens on the Olympus E-P2 and not the Panasonic GF1 which is where this lens is usually mounted. The Panasonic 20 1.7 comes in kit form with the Panny GF1 and damn, it sure is a hell of a kit lens. That is one of the areas where Panasonic has Olympus beat. The kit lens. Both their 20 1.7 and 14-45 beat Olympus’s 17 2.8 and 14-42 Kit lenses but it is pretty cool that you can mount the Panny lenses on the Oly bodies and vice versa.

An exposure at ISO 100 f/1.7 1/100 sec on m43 is exactly the same as an exposure taken at ISO 100 f/3.4 1/100 sec on full frame. The original Panasonic Lumix G 20mm f1.7 ASPH was one of the most prized lenses for both Panasonic and Olympus users and the announcement of a revamped model with the same optical construction was a surprise. Here is another image I shot along with a crop. Just a plain old roll of paper towels but with a little processing to give it some depth… Also, do you think Pana 20mm f1.7 IQ is much better than 14-42mm f3.5-5.6 MSC II R (kit from E-PL3)? At the moment I’m not happy with the result of my combo especially in low light. I don’t think the quality is as good as the EOS 450D that I had. So as I wrap up this review let me say that Panasonic is leading the race in quality lenses for the m4/3 system. Their top class 7-14, 45 Macro, 14-150 and even the “budget” 55-200 are great lenses. The Olympus lenses like the kit zoom and 17 2.8 are very good lenses but not “great lenses”. I can see myself buying the Panny lenses for “my wife’s” E-P2 in the future unless Olympus raises the stakes and puts out some higher quality lenses. I would like to see small & solid high performing primes in the future. If this happens, and the M4/3 sensors get better with their noise and overall quality then there may be a new revolution in the camera world. Its tough to beat the size and fun factor with these m4/3 kits.Main reason being was weight, it was just to heavy sometimes lugging it all about even with just the body & one lens. Panasonic GX7– The GX7 is a camera that may go best with the lens due to its smaller size–which works best with the lens’s small size. It can detect the eyes / face at a 2x faster recognition cycle speed and human / animal at a 5x faster recognition cycle speed. These subjects can be detected even they appear in approximately half the size. *Comparison between before and after updating the firmware. ISO is a unit-area quantity because it is used for exposure. But when you're talking about IQ, equal numbers do not have equal results across formats. We could fix this whole equivalence debate by either getting rid of f/numbers and just using aperture diameters or by getting rid of exposure-based ISO and just using a more absolute measure of sensitivity. The pic of my lazy, dirty face dog in bed was at ISO 1600, wide open and VERY low light. That was in my bedroom with no light on and very little light coming in.

The lens barrel is constructed from high quality plastics with a gun metal finish, and much of this space is filed with the rubberised focus ring, which has just the right amount of resistance for making fine manual focus adjustment easily. Close-focus is possible with the lens, with a 20cm minimum focus distance. 1/640s, f/1.7, ISO200, 20mm. Photo: Joshua Waller I prefer the FOV of the 20mm over the 25mm for the so-called "normal" focal length, but own both a P20 and an O25. They are both sharp, but the O25 renders colors more pleasing to my eye. The out-of-focus regions in this F1.7 shot show some purple fringing in front of the subject, aka longitudinal CA (LoCA) Certainly with the firmware upgrade (1.1) which lets you magnify more easily the screen viewer it is easy to focus with Nikon and other non-autofocus glass.

Panasonic Lumix G 20mm F/1.7 Pancake Lens Sample Photos

One oddity we did notice is that, while Panasonic's G-series cameras hold the lens's aperture wide open while you're viewing the scene in record mode, the E-P1 has a habit of stopping down, presumably to regulate the amount of light reaching the sensor. This obviously increases the depth of field in the live view image, which can potentially lead to inaccurate manual focus when shooting at large apertures (exacerbated by a false impression that manual focus is easily obtained). Fortunately this behavior can be countered by assigning depth of field preview to the function button, and using it to force the camera to open the lens up to maximum aperture for manual focus (just hope you don't need to set a custom white balance, which also requires the function button, at the same time). On the camera

Rec.Quality options corresponding to RAW video data output will be displayed when [Menu]>[Video]>[Image Format]>[HDMI RAW Data Output] is turned ON. Handling | Compared to | Autofocus and focus breathing | Image quality | Conclusion | Samples | Full specifications However, when shooting wide open, bokeh near the edge of the frame looks lopsided, displaying the classic 'cat eye' effect. While this can lead to a slightly less shallow DOF effect at edges, it's perfectly acceptable for a lens of this type, and wasn't severe enough to yield swirly bokeh in our shots. More importantly, the discs near the corners aren't truncated in an odd or distracting manner. So if you use these values, the full frame at f/3.4 iso800 takes the same exact image as f/1.7 iso200 on m43 for this same field of view. If both sensors have the same number of pixels, the amount of light reaching each pixel for the same image is exactly the same.

Panasonic Lumix G 20mm F/1.7 Pancake Lens Specifications

Great lens for the price. I do wish it had optical stabilization, but that would likely ruin the small size. It is pity the review doesn't seem to have mention anything about if the focus engine noise has been improved. If you search about the old 20mm, there are much more talks on the focus noise than the focus speed. And also the bokeh quality of 20mm is a little bit better than the 25mm. It would be good if the review can confirm the quality of the bokeh of the new 20mm has unchanged or as good or improved The 7-aperture blades mean that sun-stars have 14 points. 1/400s, f/14, ISO200, 20mm. Photo: Joshua Waller I went with the 20mm for its size when used with GF7/GM1/ GM5. It certainly isn’t a fast focusing lens but for my usage speed doesn’t matter. I’ll be keeping it, unlike the 25mm f1.7. I handled the 15mm, it is much deeper but offers more by way of direct control rings. The 15mm is much more expensive. I don't know but to be frank I think the problems of AF with the 20mm f.17 on Oly bodies is overblown. I believe its down to expectations management.