You can alleviate matters by using a fungicidal wash from time to time and also improving the ventilation. If the bubbling is persistent then it may be indicative of a problem elsewhere, such as a defective damp course, in which case you will need to investigate further. Unlike other stabilising solutions, this one is suitable both for exterior and interior surfaces, which include materials such as plaster, brickwork and cement. This should only be used on it's own as it cannot be painted over the top of as it will repel the paint. It sgood stuff designed to slow the suction rate of the paint and hold the friable or flacky paint together.

Always remember that applying some sort of exterior primer is one of the most important preparatory steps before applying any sort of paint. If the walls are porous or chalky, there is an increased risk of paintwork not adhering to the wall, looking bad once it’s been applied or in the worst-case scenario – starts flaking off a few weeks after you patted yourself on the back for a job well done!Drying time will vary depending on the ambient temperature, but normally 4 – 8 hours should be allowed for each coat to fully dry. You can rub the majority of the dust off by hand but it'll still need sealing with a good coat or 2 of something, any suggestions on a product i can use, ta! Some examples of friable surfaces are weathered cement or brickwork, and it is important to check them before applying paint. Even if you remove all loose paint, you're then left with loads of patches and hollows on the walls which seem a fraction of a mm deep, but when you paint the wall, the paint highlights these areas and they really stand out. I have a newly rendered garden wall that we were advised to use stabilising primer before painting with masonry paint.

Everyone seems to offer different advice and I have put a lot of work into the wall so don’t want to spoil it all by following the wrong advice. As we have mentioned, paint manufacturers will often recommend using a specific primer or stabiliser when using their product. However, if the surface of the brickwork has become damaged than this in itself will result in abnormal moisture penetration and painting with a breathable coating may mitigate this? In such cases, I always recommend that the wall is left exposed to weather for at least 12 months prior to painting. The Wickes product cautioned against applying it too thick so it left a shiny finish (not good), not to apply it to surfaces that were not dusty (ditto) and I think not even to apply it to previously painted surfaces (urgh).However, I would suggest that if the edges of the cracks are dusty, powdery or slightly crumbly, then you'd either need to brush that fully away until you get to firm ground or else apply stabilising solution directly to this before filling (but obviously brush away any really loose stuff first. It depends on the quality of the paint how much water you should add but start with a small area first so you judge it. This moisture may force itself out eventually and cause the paintwork to bubble and/or subsequently flake-off. It is important to know how to recognise what surfaces would benefit from using stabilising solution on them, because using it when not absolutely necessary can actually be detrimental to the quality of your wall.