Rob: Triach Praetorians don’t belong to Dynasties. They protect the dynasties of various tombworlds so that… Beanith: Look, it’s called ‘artistic licence.’ And to be fair, there is an example of a Sautekh Triach Praetorian in the codex too so QED or whatever the fancy latin term is for “look, there’s a distraction over there!” The final step on the necron themselves is to do the extreme edge highlights, I used a common colour for each of metallics and conventional paints to help tie them all together. The green phaseblade was very intimidating to start with as I had never really done any blending before, but it turned out to be very simple. I used the standard technique, as shown very well by Juan Hidalgo here. I used a wet blend from GW Dark Angels Green -> GW Warpsone Glow -> GW Moot Green -> 50/50 GW Yriel Yellow / GW Moot Green, then edge highlighted with 50/50 Yriel Yellow / White. The king size bed has bedside cabinets and there’s plenty of storage in built-in cupboards with shelves and drawers.

Nuln oil… just smoosh Nuln oil on all the grey metal. Go to town with it in the recesses not already claimed by Contrast Warp Lightning. Basecoat of Warpstone Glow Wash of Agrax Earthshade Touch up large surfaces and ridges/details with additional layers of Warpstone Glow until they reach a smooth and bright appearance Edge highlight with a 4/1 mix of Warpstone Glow and Wraithbone. This gives the highlights a bit of a muted color tone, but it looks pretty decent on the table. You could certainly opt to highlight with a brighter green such as Moot Green or its equivalent Perform touchups of Agrax in areas that may have caught some paint or need to be darkened Salamanders Lieutenant. Credit: PierreTheMime The SkinCredit: ZuultheCat The teal bits are very simple: 2 base coats of Sotek Green to get a solid base coat. Once this is dry, load up some Temple Guard Blue on a small dry brush and get most of the paint off, like you’re going to drybrush. Stab the brush directly onto the sotek green parts, breaking up the solid blue base coat. Once this dries, simply glaze over the teal parts with an undiluted coat of Lamenter’s Yellow. If you don’t have any of that long-lost liquid gold, you can mix up Iyanden Yellow contrast paint with Contrast Medium or just make your own Lamenter’s Yellow. Step 1: I start by doing a base coat of Leadbelcher all over the main parts of the body that won’t be red. My reds have pretty good coverage, so I can afford to be a bit sloppy here. I also want to get the spots on the head where the mask is broken. Color Space Conversions Decimal 5419588 Binary 01010010, 10110010, 01000100 Hexadecimal #52b244 LRV ≈ 34.1% Closest short hex #5a4 ΔE = 2.746 RGB rgb(82, 178, 68) RGBA rgba(82, 178, 68, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.250, g: 0.543, b: 0.207 RYB red: 26.667%, yellow: 69.804%, blue: 64.314% Android / android.graphics.Color -11357628 / 0xff52b244 HSL hsl(112, 45%, 48%) HSLA hsla(112, 45%, 48%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 112° (112.364), saturation: 62% (0.618), value: 70% (0.698) HSP hue: 112.364, saturation: 61.798%, perceived brightness: 57.013% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 125.209, S: 80.291, L: 65.002 Cubehelix H: -255.996, S: 0.768, L: 0.538 TSL T: -0.345, S: 0.302, L: 0.536 CMYK cyan: 54% (0.539), magenta: 0% (0.000), yellow: 62% (0.618), key: 30% (0.302) CMY cyan: 68% (0.678), magenta: 30% (0.302), yellow: 73% (0.733) XYZ X: 20.443, Y: 34.050, Z: 10.963 xyY x: 0.312, y: 0.520, Y: 34.050 CIELab L: 65.002, a: -49.576, b: 46.616 CIELuv L: 65.002, u: -44.685, v: 63.324 CIELCH / LCHab L: 65.002, C: 68.051, H: 136.762 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 65.002, C: 77.503, H: 125.209 Hunter-Lab L: 58.353, a: -39.584, b: 29.708 CIECAM02 J: 53.862, C: 62.316, h: 136.708, Q: 144.595, M: 54.494, s: 61.390, H: 170.783 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.659, jaune: 6.869, green: 6.883 LMS L: 27.828, M: 43.484, S: 11.305 YCbCr Y: 133.450, Cb: 93.918, Cr: 93.666 YCoCg Y: 126.500, Cg: 51.500, Co: 24.000 YDbDr Y: 136.756, Db: -103.430, Dr: 104.098 YPbPr Y: 149.632, Pb: -43.960, Pr: -42.940 xvYCC Y: 144.507, Cb: 89.384, Cr: 90.280 YIQ Y: 136.756, I: -21.850, Q: -54.525 YUV Y: 136.756, U: -33.834, V: -48.039 Okhsl h: 141.207, s: 0.904, l: 0.630 Okhsv h: 141.207. s: 0.732, v: 0.721 Okhwb h: 141.207, w: 0.193, b: 0.279 Oklab l: 0.682, a: -0.135, b: 0.109 Oklch l: 0.682, c: 0.174, h: 141.207 Munsell Color System 10GY 6/12 ΔE = 3.579 Brand Color Trulia ΔE = 5.614 Random Colors

The models in the Indomitus box are my first Necrons – I’ve previously thought about doing Necrons but never pulled the trigger on them. I’m kind of glad I waited now because these models are awesome — they wonderfully combine the creepy eldritch horror of the 3rd edition Necron fluff with the character of the Tomb Kings-style 5th edition reboot. I’ve always really liked the red Necrons that one of my college roommates painted, and so I wanted to do something similar in style to his Necrons, albeit with a little more visual flair on the characters. I also wanted to get away from the green energy rods, since the red/green combo can end up looking a little too Christmas-like. Step 1, of course, is to assemble all required tools – I set up here with the sprue for the Skorpekh and roughly the set of paints I thought I’d need. I did have a few models done however, and now that I'm going froward with an Orc army my concern is primarily Goblin Green. GW's paint conversion chart says Warboss Green is the best match from the new paints, but it doesn't even look close! Moot Green looks more like the old Scorpion Green I think... Wide carpeted stairs rise from the half landing to another landing where there's a chair inviting you to stop and enjoy the views of the boating pond, Moot Hall, and the shingle beach. Three more stairs take you to the living room.

Second edge highlight: Stonewall Grey 1:1 with Basalt Grey and a small amount (in the 10-20% range again) of Temple Guard Blue. This is a finer highlight along all the edges. Then the same color was used to paint the whole face again along with the gauss tube, wires, and coils on the gun. The wires hanging out of the chest were painted this too, along with the raised portion of the chest emblem. Stairs rise to the double off a half landing and onwards to the gorgeous living room with great views over the beach to the horizon to the east and the boating pond and Moot Hall to the north. For the yellow cables I started with a brown base coat to provide a really stark contrast against the highlighted sections, otherwise I find cables can look like they have not even been highlighted from a distance.

I like this guy a lot, but my Necron army never got past the stage of being “fledgling” and was mostly painted two years ago, and I think now i would do them differently. The body is just Army Painter silver spray washed Nuln Oil, the carapace is Naggaroth Night then Xereus Purple highlighted with Genestealer Pink, and the green is Warpstone Glow -> Moot Green. The gold is just Retributor Gold washed Seraphim Sepia, and the brassy bits are Runelord Brass which I think was also washed Sepia. One prominent aspect of the Salamanders is their use of flame and melta weapons in battle. They often paint flame designs on their armor as well, and this can add some interesting challenge to painting Salamanders models.I love the ostentatious colour scheme of the Nihilakh Dynasty, not afraid to show off their riches on even the lowliest Necron Warrior. At the front of the house is the light and airy kitchen with dining table by the double doors in the bay; the master bedroom which also has double doors to the garden and the single with sea views and desk for those needing to do a spot of work! Stunning light and exceptionally well-equipped kitchen with light flooding through the double doors which open onto the garden.

You'll feel instantly at home as you step into the entrance hall which runs through the heart of the house with a step up to double doors, followed by the kitchen door on your left, three stairs to a half landing on your right, then the family bathroom. The Nihilakh dynasty are visually notable for combining teal and gold/bronze coloring on their armor. Most notably, Trazyn originally hails from this dynasty, and the studio paint job for Orikan the diviner also follows this color scheme. We return to finish off the iconography! I somewhat violate the my typical behavior of only doing zenithal highlights on these as I want to put a lot of emphasis on the depth of the dragon’s face. For this I put the brightest points on stuff like the jaw, brows, and spines that should be be bold against the rest really to emphasize the key parts of the Salamanders logo. Broke out the Tamiya Gold Leaf here but any metallic gold will do. After that I used the Contrast Iyanden Yellow to give it a more reddish hue of gold.

I had just begun a wolf rider themed army prior to 8th edition and then steadfast came along and ruined it so I put my greenskins aside. Thankfully I'd barely done any painting on this army yet (seeing as GW in the interim scrapped the old paint range).