My phono stage is an NAD 7250PE, which should at least be decent. I can also blame some of this on my old speakers (mini Optimus) which have since been traded out for an older pair of Cerwin-Vega bookshelfs (not the best, but oh well) that are currently sitting on the floor until I get some time to make some stands. Additionally, a new technique was developed and applied: slit less than 1 mm dia. hollow pole pins, thus significantly reducing eddy current losses caused by magnetic hysteresis. This sophisticated technology extends the frequency range and improves phase linearity. Note that the above assumes a phono-cable capacitance of 125pF for the Technics SL1200 Mk5. This value may be higher (likely) or lower for other turntables. Typically, a value in the range 150-200pF is assumed. Comparison I understand the power requirements of the AR-3a. But they seem to do rather well with the Eico HF-60's, which are really quite powerful, in my small-ish room. I don't try to push them and I've never had any problems.

Prices valid in stores (all including VAT) until close of business on 26th November 2023. (Some of these web prices are cheaper than in-store, so please mention that you've seen these offers online.) Rather, it has a solidness and weight to it. If you’re a fan of predominant but balanced treble sounds, go for the ORTOFON OM20. From experience, you’ll know that if the treble is actually too dominant, it thins out the melody, and of course, it makes it very easy to tire of records that way.

Definitely recommended for the novice, who can take the advantage of this specific design of stylus exchangeability by planning to save his cost in getting up the audio staircase with upgrades to OM-20, and then to OM-40. Skiping the OM-30 stylus is a wise choice in this. By means of advanced computer simulation methods, Ortofon is able to define the natural pivot point of the system with unprecedented accuracy while achieving an optimum oscillation balance. This results in improved linearity, higher channel separation, and reduced distortion.

The body of the acoustic guitar was about as real as it can get, and so were the vocals. The effect is similar to sitting mid-row in a small coffee shop. So a very personal album. Micro and macro dynamics of the guitar and the piano were fairly realistic, only bettered by the Aries 1 turntable and UREI speakers of yore. Once again I heard shorter depth and a bit less detail than my older systems, but there was still a cohesiveness that really brought my enjoyment factor to a very high level. I would also like to add that if you try or have tried an Ortofon OM 20 and you find it too bright or harsh, I would suggest that your problem lies elsewhere in the system and should be explored. I know that this is an old, standard audiophile sales argument to explain awful sounding gear...but in this case I believe it's actually the truth. I have also heard a lot of good things said about the Jico stylus available for the OM bodies, I have never tried one myself, but may do in the future, they do seem reasonably priced if their specs match their claims. The AR-2, AR-2a, and AR-2ax, all of which I've owned, are not refined enough for my tastes. I really wanted to like the AR-4, but the same was true for the pair that I tried. I'd be curious to try them again at some point, though.Sound tests simply have to do with testing the sound quality for the major parts and as always (almost always), I enjoyed the sound test. Personally I would look up an OM20 or OM30 stylus and use that. For example https://www.lpgear.com/product/ORS020.html

I now start wondering if I would be happy even with the genuine OM20 or if the OM10 would be closer to what I'm looking for (given the Super S really came with a 10) with my gear. Or maybe I just keep using the well-kept but decades-old original (OM10?) needle but then again I don't want to damage my records. Still using it on a Dual 1219 and it sounds great on this, better than it ever did on the Rega or Technics. So it's turntable dependant. OK value for money but were I buying now I would go for the plus version with its upgrade possibilities that this version does not have. The bass was the last and best sound I tested. Before testing, I hoped it would have a very noticeable and yet measured presence. I wanted it to have a punch that would cover up for the slight inadequacies of the treble. What's the difference between the 2M Red or Blue and the OM 10, 20, 30, 40? The only thing I can seem to find is that the 2M Red/Blue are maybe Ortofon's newer versions of the 10, 20, etc? And they're just as good - if not better - and less expensive? Seems too good to be true? DUAL Turntables* 505, CS503-2, CS503-5, CS505, CS505-2, CS505-3, CS505-4, CS430, CS515 & CS5000 DN165E, DN166E, DN167E, DN168E, DN20NE ULM65E, ULM66E, ULM67E & ULM68E

NF15MkII Stylus replacement for Ortofon FF15MkII Ref 714D

The capacitive load setting that you use is important with a moving magnet. You should be able to tell if your setting is working for you by the sound it gives out. If it sounds too dull, it is likely that your setting is much too low. If it sounds too bright and perhaps even the tiniest bit shrill, then you might need to take it higher a bit. While a lot of people embrace bright sounds, it contaminates the purity of the sound and sooner than later, you’ll realize that a nice balance is preferred.