Games Workshop Citadel Base: Balthasar Gold

Product Information

Coat with Nuln Oil – Most of the infantry I paint follows a basecoat > shade > coat > highlight process, and that’s true here. Cover your model in Nuln Oil, and hit the lower areas and edges with a second coat of Nuln Oil. The transmutation of common artefacts into precious metal has always fascinated Balthasar. Driven by his obsession, he spent many years combining his knowledge of alchemy, learnt in far-off lands, with the magical Lore of Metal. Edge highlight with pure Citadel Deepkin Flesh. On character models you can go even further, and add in a little Citadel White Scar to the Deepkin Flesh to do reflex highlights. Night Lords. Aka the marines that should probably have a rule called “Actually, they know quite a bit of fear”. Squigsquasher wrote:I have tried Runelord Brass and Auric Armour Gold, they are good but they tend to seperate. A lot. It's easy to fix, just stir up the mixture or give it a good shake, but it is annoying. Saying that, gold paints (in general, not just GW) are notorious for seperating.

And that’s the finished Necron Warrior! This was pretty fast and easy to do, and I’m very happy with the result. Despite using bright colors, they come across appropriately menacing, which is the goal. Freehand in some Lightning Bolts – I do this using Reaper Ghost White. If I’m doing larger bolts, I’ll do a thinner bolt of Reaper Pure White inside that, but for smaller models I just do the one off-white layer. I use a 10/0 brush for this. Put paint on your brush and start at the top, then drift downard using a light touch. Wherever your brush first touches the model is gonna get a drop of paint, so if you add branches I find it’s easier to start higher up and go over the bolt center again. I do all this before I do the trim work, and I’ll paint over the bolts a little as well. Generally, I do bolts on the shoulder pads, the sides of the thighs (if that space is open), and the sides of the greaves. On models with cleaner chest plates, I might add a bolt there as well, or on the tops of lightning claws. Once the drybrushing has dried, I make an almost glaze-like wash of Steel Legion Drab. This is applied across the surfaces of the blue, without letting it pool into the recesses. If anything you want thin areas of pooling on the surfaces as this will break up the big flat areas of blue later on without looking too blotchy, so long as you’ve thinned your paint enough. It might take a bit of practice but it’s worth getting right. Finally, I glaze the entire section with Lamenters Yellow (I bought up a big surplus but you could create a glaze using Iyanden Yellow Contrast and some Contrast Medium) which is thinned slightly. I’ve found that using straight from the pot can lead to some overly green sections, which isn’t what I’m looking for, so the thinning really helps to dilute some of that colour and turn it to the characteristic turquoise-esque colour. From there, assembly time. Here I thought I’d test the theory that you can build these without glue, and the answer is that yes, you can, and they’re mostly fine. There were a couple of joins that were a little bit looser than I’d like (so I did add glue to those after testing the dry fit) but if you really wanted to go glue-free you could. The hardest parts to work with were faces – GW have devised a clever way to hold these into place, which is that they’re attached to one of the arms and sort of get twisted into position and held by the tension, which works but is a little fiddly to line up, and the main place I went “screw it, adding glue”. Third edge highlight: Stonewall Grey and plus 10% or so Temple Guard Blue was done as the final edge highlight on most of the body, focusing on the top edges and sharpest corners and covering less area that the last one. This mix was also painted over most of the face, leaving the recesses as the previous layer. It was also used to paint the emblem, edges of wires and gauss coils, and squiggled along the sides and top of the gauss tube as the first layer of the energy effect.I’ve done this a few different ways now and I think starting with Wraithbone is probably the right call, and I’m getting to where it doesn’t take hours to do, which helps a lot. Broadsword Wargaming: Painting the New Horus Age of Darkness Heresy Boxed Set for Warhammer World | Word Bearers Tischler, Nancy (2010). All Things in the Bible: M-Z. Greenwood Publishing Group. p. 476. ISBN 978-0313330841. When asked: "What is the name of the remedy for all maladies?" Thou shalt respond: "Panacea Universalis."

I like this guy a lot, but my Necron army never got past the stage of being “fledgling” and was mostly painted two years ago, and I think now i would do them differently. The body is just Army Painter silver spray washed Nuln Oil, the carapace is Naggaroth Night then Xereus Purple highlighted with Genestealer Pink, and the green is Warpstone Glow -> Moot Green. The gold is just Retributor Gold washed Seraphim Sepia, and the brassy bits are Runelord Brass which I think was also washed Sepia. If you are looking to save time it’s worth remembering with stuff like this that even basic layering like this blends together very well on the table top. Even in close up shots kind of gets smoothed out when you have sharp contrasts like the recess colours and edge highlights going on. Finally, paint in the lenses and the Gauss energy. For the red lenses, just use the color progression we used for the gun casing. For the Guass energy and green lenses, basecoat the areas with Citadel Caliban Green, then glaze in progressive amounts of Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, and Gauss Blaster Green. Finally, base the model and you are done! I like to put a little bit of rust pigments on the feet and other low hanging parts of my models to tie them in, but I think I went a little too heavy here. I’m definitely excited to see my Necrons on the table again soon. I’ve already begun planning how how I’m going to glow up my Thaszar the Invincible model to better match the cooler, edgier Necron models of 9th edition. We will then start the highlights. Glaze on some Citadel Nurgling Green to set where the brighter parts of the model should be.

Alpha Legion

The Ultramarines Legion paint scheme during the Horus Heresy era was primarily blue with gold and white accents. The main color of the armor was a bright blue, achieved through a base coat of Macragge Blue followed by layers of Calgar Blue and highlights of Lothern Blue. The trim and other details were painted in a bright metallic gold color such as Balthasar Gold or Retributor Armour, and white accents were added to denote rank or specialization. Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. I often quite enjoy this step in a scheme, when the most time consuming parts are done and you get the opportunity to just do a flurry of small highlights all over the place and see lots of impact from little effort. Mix in some Stormhost Sliver in your Liberator Gold. Do a thicc highlight. Seriously almost layer it on. Step 9: Wash the whole thing with Nuln Oil. Once that dries, drybrush it with Celestra Grey. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones