GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Coelia Greenshade (24ml), (Pack of 1), 9918995302506

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Gravel: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Drybrush Corax White, Wash with a 1:1 mix of TAP Dark Tone / Strong Tone Ink

For Step 3 I thinned down some washes with Vallejo Glaze Medium. I thinned them a lot, enough that water would make the paint. Honestly, any medium will work just fine for this, so if you have contrast medium, lahmian medium, or even matte varnish, it should work just fine for this step, you’ll just get subtly different results with each one. I hit the purpleish areas and the skin around them with thinned Carroburg Crimson, and the rest with thinned Coelia Greenshade to give the model a bluish, dead look. For additional weathering on vehicles, apply a coat of matt varnish all over the model, then once dry, thin down Raw Umber oil paint with mineral spirit, wash into the recesses, then very carefully wipe away any excess with a cotton bud dipped in mineral spirit. You have to be extremely careful with this part, if you rub too excessively, you run the risk of wearing away the paint underneath. What other features have I painted? WHO KNOWS! It probably doesn’t matter, and I definitely forgot how I did it. I probably shouldn’t have been drinking while I wrote this! But good life choices don’t lead you to Warhammer, so cheers! Hope you enjoyed, and maybe even learned something! It’s not a huge secret I love anything with pointed ears, be it Aeldari, Drukhari, or any flavour of Aelves. When the Sylvaneth were released for Age of Sigmar, I was blown away by the sheer creativity of the range. When Ylthari’s Guardians were released for my current favourite Games Workshop game, I knew I had to paint them. They were also a great practice piece for using the Contrast paint range that was released around the same time. Paint Recipes Paint the red areas with Citadel Contrast Flesh Tearers Red. Drybrush the cloth with VGC Blue Grey.The model was primed with Corax White from Games Workshop, which is a light grey primer. I recommend applying three or four thin coats for a perfect coverage without smothering any details with paint. For the ridged sections between any carapace plates, basecoat with Xereus Purple and shade with Druchii Violet I drybrush that over the flesh of the sores. I’m also going to use Bugman’s Glow to paint all of the tentacle bits coming out of the Great Unclean One’s body in various spots. I’ll highlight the raw muscle with Bugman’s Glow as well. DONE. Really. That’s it. The basing I’ll have to cover another day, but it’s essentially Vallejo Earth Texture sprayed with a green/brown, then had a few pigments mashed on top of it before a heavy coat of pigment fixer. Very very easy and effective basing. The grass tufts are Mininatur Tufts of Desert. I will be doing another article on the Kruleboyz themselves at a later date, but if you’d like to see full video tutorials on the Kruleboyz and more, you can find them on my Patreon. Telltale’s The Walking Dead series is another critically-acclaimed series with lots of interesting decisions to be made.

Grashrak’s Sewers: Straight out of the pot and over white, it makes a gorgeous walnut brown. Yet applied in metallic recesses it makes for a nice grimey oil streaked look as well. I could also see it being sponged on Nurgle forces for a disgusting sludge splatter (two words that should never be used together). Adding some history behind the colours, I started with Deathguard (off-white, brass and green) in my mind with millenia of rot and neglect, turning the armour a slimy mucusy green. Most of the new Contrasts are both vibrant and a little transparent. This makes them absolutely perfect for near instant plasma weapons. Just be sure to prime white and paint everything except the plasma coils first. This way you don’t risk tainting the pure white base coat on the coils which is the key to this technique. For the blue one, it was just a coat of Frostheart Blue (which is also perfect for ice weapons). I then immediately took a bit of Contrast Medium and wiped away the center where I wanted the white glow to be. That’s it! The green was very similar except I applied Ironjawz Yellow to the white first. Ironjawz Yellow, unlike Bad Moon or Imperial Fist, is much more transparent and behaves like the usual Contrast paints. Once that was dry I applied Striking Scorpion Green and again used Contrast Medium to wipe away the center and push the green towards the recesses. You can do the same thing with Ironjawz Yellow and Magmadroth Orange for a much more chaos-y plasma as well. [Editor’s Note: Holy shit Darcy, this is incredible] Additional colors on this mini include Stormfiend for the scales, Garaghak’s Sewers for the wood, Targor Rageshade for the skin of the reptilian beast and Berseker Bloodshade for the scarring. For the Xenos…Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone. Tyranids – The Tyranids are a terrifying and highly adaptable race of insectoid aliens that seek to consume all organic life in the galaxy. Coelia Greenshade can be used to add an extra layer of depth and complexity to the Tyranid models, especially when used in combination with other Citadel shades and washes. The shades can help to add realistic-looking depth to the creatures’ carapaces, creating a unique and impressive look for the army. For tongues I’ll usually do the Squid Pink to finish it off, gives it that nice pink tongue look. The same will work for tentacles or other fleshy growths that you want to distinguish from the main mass. But really any colors would work just as well – I just like to start dark at the base and move to light at the tips. I did some nice Blue tongues in the same style on my warlord for the Astradus campaign. I don’t want to say his name, he’s a very litigious misfit. Horns, Claws, and Teefs Craftworlds – The Craftworlds are an ancient and highly advanced race of Eldar. They are known for their sophisticated technology and elegant, flowing armour designs. Coelia Greenshade works well for highlighting the intricate details of the Eldar armour and machinery, adding depth to the already rich color palette of their armour.

I started painting Nurgle Daemons to accompany my Death Guard. Recently, I’ve started fleshing them out into their own army and really taking on some of the bigger models they have to offer, which meant painting my Great Unclean One. Paint Citadel Coelia Greenshade into the recesses of the flesh and Citadel Contrast Basilicanum Grey into the recesses of the cloth and you’re done. Dropping alongside the Contrast expansion are some new Citadel Shade paints. Whether you use them for all-over washes or more deliberate recess shading, Citadel’s Shades have been staples for painters for years at this point. An expansion of colors, therefore, is welcome news. The bigger news, however, was the announcement of a reformulation of the Shades and that this new formula would apply to the existing Shades as well. As there is no colour in the Citadel paint range that is a perfect match for Corax White, I prepared a mix of Ceramite White, Mechanicum Standard Grey and Formula P3 Bastion Grey (I started with a ratio of about 12:1:1 and then added more paint until I got a good match for Corax White; Bastion Grey can be replaced with Stormvermin Fur). I recommend mixing a whole pot of this, as you will need this mix quite a lot. Once I was happy with the mix, I used my Corax White equivalent to paint over any spots that the primer didn’t reach. [Update 2020: Games Workshop released a Corax White base paint by now, just use this instead] The hides were done in the same way as the Hobgrotz, only with a traditional brush instead of an airbrush. The shoulder and leg armor is also done the same way as the Hobgrot armor. The metallic faces are done with Contrast paints over metallic. Gore-grunta Fur for copper, Nazdrag Yellow for gold, and Skeleton Horde for a sort of dirty silver. The large face was Apothecary White over metallic, with bright white metallic (Scale 75 Speed Metal/White Alchemy) drybrushed over it.However I have never found a GW wash that doesn't have it's equal (at the very least) in either P3, Army Painter or Secret Weapon's product line apart from Coelia Greenshade. The benefit of getting them from those other lines? More wash in the bottle, generally for less money with the same or better functionality as their GW equivalent. To get river/lake looking shiny I just kinda pour some gloss varnish from the bottle on, you will want a paper clip or something to poke any bubbles. The penultimate step is painting the rims with your choice of paint, in this case I used dryad to match my Tyranids. The last model thing the models need is to throw on some tufts, I like using these ones from Gamers Grass: Basecoat any claws with Lupercal Green, shade with Coelia Greenshade, highlight with Sons of Horus Green Rust up metal weapons and banners with Citadel Technical Typhus Corrosion and stab it with VMC Orange-Red.