Acrylic Mini X-11 Chrome Silver - Paints - Tamiya

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Overall, I’m pretty pleased with the finished result. Painting no doubt provideds a better finish than using decals – the carrier film on the decals in some areas is quite large, so risk of silvering is possible. Just to add, I’m trying Tamiya decal fix instead of my normal MicroSet/Sol. So far i am liking the results better with Tamiya Strong decal fix. I've assigned them pseudo-numbers following PS-64, as that seems to be around when they were introduced.) I've got both kits, the road one and the Monte version with the proper 6 spoke wheels. I stopped work on the road one ages ago as the wheels are wrong; wrong pattern, even for a standard car, and moulded with 4 studs - Alpines only have three. Agree with others that the more complex kits = more time but not necessarily more difficulty. I really enjoyed my re-re Hotshot build and wish I had more money to try the 3-speeds. With all of the major building now complete, it was time to start adding all the fine detail items. This was mainly on the supersturture. It was very pleasing as the parts were added to see it come to life. The hull also got a bit of attention, adding the prop shafts, propellers and stabilizsers. The hull had become quite scratched over the build, so a bit of a paint touch up was needed.

Session started with working on the left rear door - where the radar thingy hangs. This had to be cut to allow the elbow to protrude.When it came to the rigging and antenna wires, its really difficult to find images online with enough detail to make out exactly how its arranged. Rather than spend hours trawling for images, I’ve taken the easy way out and added what looks about right. It certainly adds to the overall appearance, even if not authentic. Adding the Final Details I’ve decided to lay the PE walkways inside the original parts – It certainly looks much better than leaving them plain and with much less hassle and risk of messing up. I’ve painted them a slightly darker shade of grey to make them stand out a bit more. There are a number of holes on the original plastic walkway support which are now covered by the PE – I’ll just need to work out if holes need to be drilled or if the locating pin on the part that fits through the hole can be glued direct to the PE. Superstructure & Small Items BUT - when trying to assemble the intricate counter-rotating propellers module - part D8 - a small gear jumped on the floor and was immediately eaten alive by the carpet monster.

Specifically, they claimed that "Color names and numbers of the Tamiya Paint Marker match those of Tamiya Acrylic paints, and the color toning between the two is almost perfect." I then commenced with my regular Badger Stynylrez white primer - which shot nicely on almost all parts. I get spots where the cover is not good. I'm not sure where the problem is. I must admit this kit used all its Mojo quota and I looked the other way on more then one mistakes (not panel washing the gear doors for example) So - this is the state of affairs as of the end of the last sitting time. I hope my AMS will be subdued for the rest of the build. This is a project I've working on to consider various two-dimensional visualizations of Tamiya paint colors in an interactive tool. The initial launch offers a few basic "colormetric" ways to sort, such as theI ended that last session with some dry-fitting - and with this fiddling small parts and the super soft plastic - there is never enough of that. Camera window was brutally drilled out with a Dremel - which I have not used for a while. Resulting hole was larger then the clear part. I wanted to add the electronics box so visible in the aft compartment and also a console for the AEW controllers.

The clear part was glues in place mainly using Testors Clear Parts Cement which was used to fill up around the part. Hope this will do - but I will find out only when priming. Camera lens was glues in place and the entire part was then glued into its place. Right now, the colors are based on the hex values of the sample images Tamiya provides online. As we all know, those can be quite a bit off. So I'm going to measure as many paints as I can with a colorimeter, and let you choose between the web hex representation, the observed real-world color -- and maybe the bottle caps as well!

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I’ve chosen to use a fair amount of photo etch on this model. Out of the box its ok, but much of the detail is missing. I’m hoping the PE really brings out the best. I opted to go with the Atlantic Models PE and the Eduard PE. A combination of the two as each as different offerings will help. Getting Started – The Hull This has been sitting in an unfinished state for many years since I messed up the paint on the body. Another thing to remember - install the radiators only AFTER painting the lower part of the wing under the radiators ! Onto the more positive stuff; I'm really pleased with the front and rear screens, the frames were probably painted in Tamiya X11 or Humbrol Silver.

Now I have a new found love for PE, there was no excuse to give this a go. Its quite a large model and fully expect it will take a fair amount of time to finish. Why am I building this? I used, for the first time, Perfect Plastic Putty which I found very easy to work with, not smelly, easily manipulated into seam even with my fingers and easy to clear the access. I'm happy to say you can continue the work on the road car as far as the wheels are concerned. The wheels in the Tamiya road version are perfectly correct for the 1600SC the kit depicts, both in shape and being 4-studs. Beginning with the A110 1600SC/SI introduced in 1974 the rear suspension changed to a double wishbone, close to the newer A310 1600 rear suspension, and 4-stud wheels where therefore also introduced. The 1300 model retained the older style rear suspension and 3-stud wheels.The bottom part fits quite well and its an interesting piece of engineering - in all places BUT the rear part were some shimming was necessary: One nice thing is that the body fits round the interior with no nasty gaps but something isn't quite right with the dashboard. I noticed something went wrong with the glare shield its a bit off - I have and idea how to conceal it. Also if I was looking at a box for difficulty rating, I would like to see chassis and shell listed separately. I usually ignore any race-inspired paint schemes and do a single-colour street or civvy style paintjob, but I love a complex chassis build. I'd hate to buy a kit listed as 10 box wrenches to discover it's only a 2-wrench chassis with an 8-wrench shell. Wing pars where glues - only to find some gaps in the leading edges and very think trailing edges. I glues some evergreen strips - and will have to file these into shape later on.