Games Workshop Citadel Bombe sous-couche - Aérosol Contrast Wraithbone

Product Information

For those who don’t know, Corax White Sprayisn’t actually a true white spray, but a very light grey like Corax Whitebase paint.The new White Scar Spray, on the other hand, is a true white. In addition, like Wraithbone and Greyseer, it has been designed with Contrast paints in mind, which means it has a slightly smoother finish, which improves the flow properties of washes and Contrast paints, but also provides slightly less adhesion for regular acrylic paints. White Scar compared to Corax White & the other Contrast primers

In other words, because of how Contrasts work Zenithal might be a waste of time. The Contrasts kind of already do on their own what Zenithal and shade washes would do. Contrast paints are great at tinting metallic colours. When applied with an airbrush, they act like transparent filters. What about touching up mistakes? Because of their transparent nature, you can’t just paint another layer of Contrast paint over any paint spills. You’d need to apply your base colour first, then add another layer of Contrast. However, I found this often creates a “patchy” look. I prefer painting a matching regular acrylic paint over paint spills. Citadel Contrast – taken a step further I've got a bunch of models on my gaming table right now that I painted over the past month where I used tan primers and also a bunch I did using Wraithbone, White, etc. I'll try to get some pictures taken and will post them here so you can actually see some examples and see if you can tell any major difference. Here's an example. This pig baggage carrier. The photos aren't the best, but it shows the pale, pinkish color I achieved with the Guilliman Flesh over the white undercoat. I'm trying to remember how much I diluted the Contrast but I know it was very, very thin. I added a lot of Contrast Medium to lighten the flesh color:

Regarding zenithal: I keep reading that it supposedly works very well with Contrast colors. I assume you have to dillute them a bit for that purpose. So it is something I would try with bigger miniatures and bigger surfaces, where Contrasts themselves would seem to be less efficient. Regiments I will probably undercoat with a single color, depending on the miniatures. Having said that, like washes, Contrast paints work best on models with a lot of texture, organic details like fur, hair, scales, muscles, clothes with a lot of creases, segmented armour and the like.

I'm thinking about going fully experimental and also buy vallejo desert sand or something similar, for a zenithal sand -> skeleton bone -> bone white. Do you think this will be worth a try?

I've had contrast colours work just fine on corax white and as far as I know the primers of other companies are already smoother that gw's cw, which is where that issue comes from. Lastly, I finished the stone with a lighter drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to catch the corners and give it a final highlight.

Some manufacturers even advertise a “real primer formula”, so make sure to read the product description. The “coloured” Citadel spray paints, however, are not real primers, so Games Workshop itself recommends applying a layer of “real” primer before applying spray paints like Mephiston Red spray. I hope my recommendations help you to improve your hobby and take your painting skills to the next level. A lot comes down to personal preference, but the spray paints and primers above have served me excellently over the last few years. Vallejo Desert Tan is interesting because I thought it would darken the Contrast colors more, but it actually didn't. Same goes for another Vallejo primer I didn't mention, Skeleton Bone.Note particularly what he does with the green ink. As I said I don't think that would work with a Contrast because the Contrast would kill most of the Zenithal underneath. The thinness of the ink is what allows the Zenithal to show up. Contrasts might be too strong for this. You could even experiment with painting the darker Contrast over “medium” base colours, for example, Wyldwood (dark brown) over Baneblade Brown (medium khaki/light brown) for a really deep dark brown. Or mix your Contrast paints with a lot of Contrast Medium or Lahmian Medium to use them as a wash or glaze. Also do you have a tip for an easy to achieve (i.e. contrast level of lazyness) piggy/salmon pink? I've tried the lighter contrast pink, but even heavily thinned with contrast medium the tone is way to purple overall and in the recesses. With a wash of fuegan orange over that I've had moderate success. Maybe something over a fleshtone would be better. Don’t apply Contrast paints too thinly or else the medium can’t do its magic. Apply them generously and soak up excess paint instead. Wow, well the best answer I can give is that with some Contrast colors there's almost no difference, with others there is "some" difference.