Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Cadian Fleshtone

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So, in the last section I went over the basics of mixing a skin tone. Four colors. Simple, right? Now I’m going to tell you how to break them. Just using four colors, and their derivative, ‘Flesh Tone’, will not get you the full range of human skin colors. Different skin has different hues and saturations. People are varied. Layer up to Eshin Grey, gradually mixing more and more into each successive layer until it’s almost pure Eshin Grey

Now use the browns from your pallete to selectively edge highlight the horns, using a shade one stage lighter than they were painted initially.

Lastly is edge highlighting, which you’re probably already familiar with but I’ll establish it now anyway. It involves painting just the edges of something with a lighter tone of the base color. This is good for hard, inorganic materials like metal or plastic where the edges are clearly defined, and it helps them really pop. I’ll also refer to extreme edge highlighting which is just hitting the very corners of an object. Now add a little dot of White (Scar, or your choice of flat white) and keep going in the same way, until you’re at 1:1 with your starting Cadian:Ushbati mix and your white (that’s 1:1:2 overall). You’re getting just teeny tiny details at this point. Amber Skin – A fair skin colour with a hint of ochre. Mix with Opal Skin or Pearl Pigment Toner for highlights, or use Corpse Pale from the core Warpaints range, or Flayed One Flesh from Games Workshop. Soft Skin Wash works well for shading.

Put some Contrast Talassar Blue in the channels on the splinter weapons to give it a nice glow effect Layer up the armor – this will give a nice white armor effect with shading that is actually visible but that still reads as white: Glaze 2:2:1 Reikland Fleshshade: Seraphim Sepia:Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlightYou may have noticed the third model in the group shot is actually from the Warhammer Underworlds warband. That model was my test for the scheme to make sure my idea worked before committing to the new models.

I had to give these guys Goblin Green bases to really capture that old school aesthetic, and if you’re not a coward you’ll do the same. I wrote a How to Paint Everything article on the matter which outlines some different approaches, but here’s the TL;DR version: Mix in a little more Skavenblight Dinge and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit It’s much the same process for infantry, however with the red mostly done in a bulk airbrushing session there really isn’t much left to do once you’ve pin washed and edge highlightedRuby Skin – An light skin tone that is even more pinkish than Topaz Skin. Shade with Flesh Wash from the core Warpaints range, Reikland Fleshshade from Games Workshop, or by adding Garment Pigment Toner. For highlighting, mix with Opal Skin. For the sword I go with a bone look – Rakarth flesh washed with Agrax – and I paint the tubing Moot Green. After this, we go to our base coating, which is pretty simple. I hit the flesh with Rakarth Flesh for a nice pale gray tone. I go for Naggaroth Night for my purples, Leadbelcher for the silvers, and Zandri Dust for my bones. I start dark on my little evil Drukhari tubes all over the model with Dark Angel Green and hit the tabard with Bugmans Glow . Finally, the pants get a coat of Dryad Bark . The end result is a nice jumping off point for where we want to go with this model. The second is light that hits the skin and bounces off, taking on the color of the actual surface of the skin. This is somewhat self explanatory, and the most similar to painting non skin-based objects. Green can be added in tiny amounts to desaturate the colour mix if it becomes too bright, counteracting the reds.

Glaze 4:1 Druchii Violet: Khorne Red heavily thinned on flushed areas, then retouch final highlight Glaze cheeks of type I and II skin to provide the blush – this always develops due to sun damage to the exposed cheeks. A faint tint is sufficient, don’t deepen with more layers it unless you want your model to be wearing makeup.So, I’ve talked about a lot of theory and paint mixing. I don’t typically mix up my own flesh tones in painting. Hell, I’m not as good a painter, nor do I spend as much time on individual models as my co-authors. If you’re looking for display models or to win painting awards, go listen to them. If you’re looking for a flexible technique that will do some pretty nice skin for high tabletop level models, then I may have something useful to impart. Dorado Skin – This is a medium fair skin tone that is almost an exact match for Cadian Fleshtone from Games Workshop, but with much better coverage. Shade it with Soft Skin Wash or Flesh Wash from the core Warpaints range, and add Opal Skin or Pearl Pigment Toner for highlights, or use Kobold Skin from the core Warpaints range. That’s your baseline, but it’s just a place to start. You can easily tweak skin in various ways by adding little touches of glazes or filters. Try these: Mocca Skin – A dark brown with a reddish hue. It’s similar to Doombull Brown from Games Workshop, but a nuance darker and slightly more violet. Add Onyx Skin for shading, or use Dark Skin Wash. Tiger’s Eye Skin and Jasper Skin work well for layering on top. For my Drukhari, I wanted to make clear that these are three separate subfactions who cooperate, and that they aren’t really a single army. To that end, I chose some color schemes that stand out next to one another, but have a coherent threat that joins them together.