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So, what do you get for the extra expense? First and foremost, you get the same sleek cube frame, well-sized build volume, and fast bed heating of the original. The Ender-5 Pro is different than other 3D printers I've encountered in that the extruder assembly remains at the top of the printer. When printing begins, the build plate is immediately below it, and as the object is printed layer by layer, the build plate slowly descends. I'm not sure if it was because of this peculiar configuration, but I had trouble getting the extruder and plate the proper distance from each other. One or two corners would align well, but I couldn't get the other two aligned properly. Before I could get the extruder and build plate close enough to one another, the knob would reach a point where turning it further didn't bring the components any closer together. But not only the distance of the retraction is important, but also the retraction speed has a big effect on your print result. Like other settings, the retraction distance and retraction speed is highly dependent on the printer and filament used. It’s also worth noting that if you go for the latest Ender 3 model, the Ender S1, you’ll get identical nozzle and bed temperatures as the Ender 5.
After calibrating the extruder, it’s also important to calibrate the axes of the printer. Calibrating the axes is similar to calibrating the extruder, but requires that you actually print something. BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor– the king of third-party automatic bed leveling upgrades, the mighty BL Touch pairs beautifully with both the Ender 3 and Ender 5.
A beefed-up all-metal extruder frame helps smooth filament loading and extrusion consistency with a handy adjustable bolt to fine-tune gear pressure to suit different filament types. And finally, the Ender 5 Pro replaces the plastic tubing for sleek Capricorn Bowden PTFE tubing, raising the printer’s printing chops when using flexibles and cutting down on wiggle and other common filament loading woes. The difference between a direct drive extruder and a Bowden Extruder is the distance between the extruder and the nozzle. The print volume of the Ender-5 Pro is 20 mm larger in the z-axis than the Ender-5 S1. In practical terms, the print volume is identical. So with both 3D printers, you can print small and medium-sized objects in one piece. As the Ender 5 Pro has a slightly larger build volume, the bed takes slightly longer to heat than on the Ender 3 V2. As for flexibles and less common filament types, the base Ender 5 coughs up quite a few issues. If these form part of your must-have list of compatible materials, we recommend the Ender 5 Pro and Plus. The reason is that they sport excellent Capricorn Bowden Teflon tubing on the extruder, far better suited to flexible filaments and other exotic materials.
The Ender 5 and Ender 5 Pro boast an identical 220 x 220 x 300 mm build volume, which falls bang on average for this price range. You can expect to print a broad selection of objects such as models, toys, household pieces, and figurines of what we’d call a medium size. In theory, PLA does not require a heated print bed and can be printed at room temperature. However, the print bed adhesion is significantly better if you set temperatures between 50 and 60 °C. With the Ender 5 (Plus/Pro), it's also quite rare that you'll need to use tools like Blue Tape to increase print bed adhesion. The panels feature an insulating sandwich, as Wham Bam calls it, consisting of a polymer honeycomb board, Nylon, and a metallic internal liner. All these work to deliver toasty temperatures while acting as a barrier to keep out unwanted drafts. Brims and rafts print an area of filament on the outside or under the print object. This increases the surface and adhesion. However, these two options are only necessary for extreme cases and have the disadvantage that you have to remove this auxiliary construction from the print object after printing. Borrowing the same basic design concept as the wood and acrylic build, a plexiglass Ender 5 DIY enclosure grants the best visibility of any homemade option.
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Alongside, it also ships with Creality’s new proprietary Sprite full metal dual-gear direct drive extruder system that helps minimize common flexible printing issues like poor retraction, jams and clogs in the PTFE tubing, while also improving filament control and feeding. Print Bed If extruder and nozzle temperature are top of your list of requirements, it may be worth taking a peek at Creality’s new Ender 3 S1 Pro. With a nozzle that can reach temperatures up to 300°, the Ender 3 S1 Pro is equipped to print a broader range of materials – PLA, ABSE, PETG, Nylon, TPU, Wood fill, and numerous other high-temperature filament types. A much better all-metal extruder smoothes filament loading and extrusion consistency with a handy adjustable bolt to fine-tune gear pressure to suit different filament types. The Ender 5 Pro swaps the plastic tubing for brand name Capricorn Bowden PTFE tubing, raising the printer’s printing potential when fed flexible materials and cutting down on unwanted movement and other common filament loading problems. Nowadays, a filament sensor is a must-have feature in my opinion. The filament sensor pauses the print as soon as there is no filament left or when it broke.
As the Neo name implies, there are plenty of new features here. There’s automatic bed leveling courtesy of Creality’s CR Touch system, a full-metal Bowden extruder, and a flexible PC spring steel magnetic build plate. The other significant change is the inclusion of automatic bed leveling, courtesy of a BLTouch probe. A major improvement that takes much of the hassle out of those initial hours with the Ender 5 and Pro. Creality has also thrown in a few choice quality-of-life tweaks, including a filament runout sensor, a 4.3-inch touchscreen, and a tempered glass plate. Building the Ender-5 Pro took several hours but wasn't difficult; I'd call it a slightly easier task than assembling the Ender-3 V2. The job involves bolting the vertical beams (a.k.a. extrusions) to the base, which supports the print bed and holds the motherboard and power supply. Confused, I did a Google search on homing the Ender-5 Pro's extruder, only to learn that other users had noted the same issue but it wasn't a problem—the extruder by default does home to the right rear corner. Some third parties offer custom firmware fixes so it homes to the front left, but the printer works fine even with its peculiar homing convention. Just be aware that an object being printed may appear to be rotated 180 degrees from how you saw it in your slicing software's preview.I got a BL Touch sensor (also from Creality) but haven't installed it yet. I'm still happy with the manual levelling. Except the first days, when I did not level it correctly, once I did level it as it should, I only had to re-level it only one time. Search thingiverse for a test 3d model for the bed leveling and print that. You will now instantly where you need to do adjustments. If you’re printing an object and you’re uncertain if you have enough filament left on the spool, you don’t have to worry about that with a filament sensor because you can easily add more. Without a filament sensor like the Ender-5 Pro, you need to be certain you have enough filament for your project. The main difference between the previous Ender 5 models and the Plus is a much larger 350 x 350 x 400 mm. To offset any potential stability issues caused by the larger footprint and deliver the same solid print quality, the Ender 5 Plus features additional rods and an extra lead screw.
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