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Overall, my measurements are pretty close to what Rovyvon says they should be… if you follow the ANSI rating which measures the output at 30 seconds. But I think Rovyvon usually states turn-on values, and I seem to be reading higher than that. Perhaps Rovyvon got a really nice batch of Nichias, or maybe my sensor really liked the High CRI light.Like other Rovyvon lights, in High and Medium mode, output starts dropping immediately as soon as you turn the light on. RovyVon A5 battery life: runtime graphs Mode ANSI FL1 standards: The runtime is measured until the light drops to 10% of its initial output (30 seconds after turning on). This does not mean that the flashlight is not usable anymore. The last column shows how long the light actually works till it shuts off. If there is a + symbol, it means that the test was stopped at that particular point, but the light was actually still running. This happens on certain occasions, with certain drivers, firmware, or batteries. Peak beam intensity and beam distance measurements There are a bunch of versions of this series of RovyVon lights. But the A28 in specific is available with Cree XP-L (likely HD) and Nichia 219c. There are also three secondary options: Red/UV, and White/UV, and White/Red. What you see here is the Nichia 219c Red/UV copy. Price Main LED High (260 lumen, 120mins)- Bright, brighter than I would need most of the time, so not too useful for me.
UV Lantern (3hrs) - Interesting novelty, maybe you can find a cool bug or spot a fake ID with it, not too useful for me. Bernard is known for bringing everyday carry out of obscurity and into the mainstream, having been published or featured in various publications such as GQ, TIME Magazine, The New York Times, VICE, HYPEBEAST, Outside, and many others. He has also played a part in curating, designing, and developing digital and physical products, resulting in successful crowdfunding projects or limited edition collaboration products with established softgoods brands. He stays on the pulse of the EDC industry by attending trade shows, participating in online interest communities, and actively engaging with fellow gear enthusiasts on social media. Towards the tail end of the light is a small USB cover that hides a Micro-USB port.It charged at 0.35 amps (1.85 watts); finishing a full charge cycle in 1 hour flat.My USB meter showed that 259 mAh were transferred – a bit short of spec.While charging, the indicator LED “breathes” blue.It then switches to solid blue when it is done charging. Main LED Very High (450 lumen, 90mins)- Way brighter than I was expecting, definitely brighter than any other light I've owned. Only capable of I think 100sec of use before stepping down brightness due to heat, but honestly it's too bright except for investigating strange noises in the dark. A nice feature for sure but I rarely use it for more than a few seconds at a time.The compact flashlight features four main brightness levels, ranging from 3 to 650 lumens, plus auxiliary UV, red and white LEDs positioned on the side of the A8x. All outputs are operated using the single side switch: Rovyvon has a really wide array of lights, though almost all of them belong to the keychain category. That can make things even more confusing because there are a lot of lights that look similar at first blush.Thankfully Rovyvon recently posted a comparison chart of their Aurora series (that’s what they call the small, cylindrical keychain lights).As of the time of this writing, there are 7 different models, each of which comes in both cool white and neutral white. And a couple of the models (the A1 and A2) come in several body colors. Others (A5 – A8) come with different combinations of aux lights. Oh, and we’re now on the 3rd generation of Auroras– this one switches to USB-C charging and adds some other updates.So if you have trouble keeping them straight, you’re not alone.Just consult this handy chart. That’s different from the original too, which had a much bigger and fairly prouder switch. I have no complaints about the upgrade, except I wish they’d thrown a metal (or at least hard) switch cover on there. There are a few versions here. Two emitter options: Cree XP-G3, and Nichia 219c (seen here). And two secondary options: UV/Red/White, and Amber/Red/Blue (seen here). That’s it for the A8x, but there are others in this series, too: A5x (Green GITD), A7x (blue GITD), A2x (Stainless), A3x (aluminum), A4x (titanium), and the A10x (timascus). Price There are two different versions of the Rovyvon A8x, the difference being the Aux LEDs. One has amber, red, and blue LEDs. The sample I have is the “UV” model which has UV, red, and neutral white aux LEDs.It’s great to have the option of a neutral white LED.It’s unfortunately not high CRI, but is pleasant nonetheless.I’ve found that the super floody, side-firing, neutral white LED is pretty handy for nighttime reading and low-light table-top illumination.Measurements for the white aux LED are:
Beam shots of the building are taken at 15 m (16 yd) using a Pixel 6 set to ISO 200 with 1/10 second exposure time. Needs a 1 or sub-lumen mode for main LED, red lantern, and white lantern. It's just a bit too bright inside a tent, especially with a partner. High looks about the same, and steps down in the same way. The stepdown happens later here, so High actually ends up with a higher output rating at 30s, than Turbo. Here’s a couple of runtimes on the highest main modes. As you can see, the stepdown sort of kills the output measurement.
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The situations where I wouldn't rely on this light are if I intend to hike or need light for many hours in the dark, or use it outside in a storm. It has enough battery life that it could be used all night in an emergency, and it did do fine in light rain, (but was ultimately killed by the washing machine) so I think it could work in a jam, but if I know that heavy storms, long hours hiking in darkness, or midnight evacuations are likely then I'm bringing a more robust headlamp. Hard to say if there’s LVP but the stepdowns mean you’ll definitely notice when the battery is low. That said, I’m fairly sure lipos are more resilient (or at least safer) when discharge is low. I compare everything to the Killzone 219b BLF-348 because it’s inexpensive and has the best tint! Conclusion What I like
It’s possible to memorize any of the 4 modes with this UI. Just leave the light on for around 3 minutes, and that mode is memorized (except for secondary emitters). Your light will likely ship with this mode set to High! LED and Beam I also am usually using low or medium power, which gives hours to days of solid runtime. Except for briefly spotting things I never use the higher modes for more than a few seconds. If you are like me and are comfortable traveling under the light of the moon or even just starlight then this light will be good for you. If you feel the need to hike with your high beams on then this will not be adequate. And here’s the light beside my custom engraved TorchLAB BOSS 35, an 18350 light. I reviewed the aluminum version of that light in both 35 and 70 formats.
Light Quality
Using and carrying this light is awesome. It’s compact and light weight, while outputting enough light for everything I have used it for. The only negative with this light for me is the Amber auxiliary LED — it’s too bright and completely useless. I would get the UV model if I were to do it again as I have to think that it would be slightly more useful with the low white side light. Overall USB Rechargeable: plug in a micro USB cable and charge away. There’s no batteries and the life from the built in battery is outstanding. The runtime for high and medium follow. Output doesn’t hit the claim when considered to FL1 standards, but at initial output the specs are met. (Also the modes are labeled “Turbo” and “High” below, but I think it’s clear what’s going on.)
If you'd like to install the tritium vials by yourself, please get the correct dimensions - length 6.0mm and diameter 1.5mm. All of the Aurora series (except for the A4 pro) use a TIR lens. Like most TIR lenses, there is a defined hotspot with a light spill. The hotspot has some small tint variation throughout, which is pretty normal. The transition to spill has some slight variation in the form of rings as well – I’d describe them but I’m not good with colors.Lux was measured by a UNI-T UT383 BT at 5 meters. Lumens were measured in a homemade lumen tube using a TSL2591 sensor, calibrated with a Maukka calibration light. The temperature was monitored with a MLX90614 IR temperature sensor. Lumen measurements Moonlight seems to be momentary only – there isn’t a way to get to it in the main group as far as I can see Also an option is the loop on the tail end. It’s fit for a lanyard or chain, but neither is included. Needs a 50-30 lumen mode for main LED. 15 lumens is plenty most of the time, but when you want just a little more then you have to go all the way up to 260 which is kinda absurd. I didn’t runtime UV. I’m not sure how sensitive my meter is to UV, but I can say that the UV emitter on High (there are two UV modes) must be quite inefficient (and/or powerful) because the body heats up a bit with UV on high. Also for whatever concerns there are about UV not penetrating the body – the UV goes through just fine. I can’t speak as to what percentage if any is lost in the passage through the body, but even on Low, the UV is useful. Charging
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