Drayton 3 Port motorised Valve MA1 Actuator only.

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At the moment I am assuming that the valve is in the mid way position (otherwise we wouldn't be getting hot water from the tank and some heat from the radiators) and the strange behaviour of the heating is because it only works when the programmer for the hot water is on. Very frustrating and don't know what else to do with the damn things other than to have a different make and model installed. I don't do it myself. I get a professional to do it - thank god I have an all-singing-all-dancing central heating insurance cover to deal with it.

At this point, demanding Hot Water causes the actuator to move to the W position and if the demand for Heating is still there, the actuator moves to the mid-position. (This is counter-intuitive to the problem of no hot water in the morning as when I test the system the actuator moves with hot-water demand even though it had not done so yesterday morning!) If heating or water is called for the main valve opens and the 3 position valve moves to Heat or Water. If both are called for then the Mid position is selected which allows water to circulate to both. formatting link When there is a HW demand but not a CH demand, the valve is un-powered and sits in the HW position. The boiler and pump are powered directly from the cylinder stat. With the head unit removed from the valve body, turning on the system and demanding Heating causes the actuator to move to the H position. Turning down the room stat satisfies the demand and the system shuts down the boiler and the pump but the actuator remains in the H position. Cycling the demand fires the boiler and pump but satisfying the demand with the room-stat has no effect on the actuator which stubbornly remains in H. Now some heat is getting to the cold radiators. The new (compared to the others) double radiator is doing something I haven't encountered before. The rear part is heating up but the front part is staying cold. It doesn't have air in because I have bled it (amazingly after a long search I found a bleed screw) and it was full of water.I assume if the 3 way valve was working properly and the heating side wiring wasn't requesting heating then the 3 way valve would be set to Heat and the central heating wouldn't work. However although I heard the main valve move and watched the plastic lever move, I haven't heard anything from the 3 way valve and the plastic lever seems to be floating. I have looked up the model and found it to be a "drayton mid position actuator MA1" and wanted to know what i need to do to replace it . That is, there is a shared (flow) valve which has to open to allow any water to flow, then a second 3 way valve which decides which way the water will flow. When HW and CH are calling for heat at the same time, the valve moves to the mid position. The boiler and pump are still powered directly from the cylinder stat. Digging so far indicates that if the controller calls for heating (with thermostat set above ambient temperature) nothing happens.

When there is a CH demand but no HW demand (tank stat satisfied or HW off at programmer) the valve moves to the CH position. A microswitch in the valve actuator switches a live supply to the orange wire - which then powers the boiler and pump.I do know they have a circuit board and very flimsy, but normally reliable, micro-switches but why would I want to go replacing the whole actuator, as you suggested in the first place, or even the circuit board as you now suggest, when the excellent descriptions of correct operation given by both 'Jonhmdc' and 'flameport' show that my actuator was working correctly all along and the only thing at fault was my understanding of its correct operation. The MPV actuator is a BGMVSP-23. The control and thermostat is a Hive system. Boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Ri. System is gravity fed open vented system, tanks in the loft and HW cylinder in airing cupboard.