Johnstone's - Quick Dry Gloss Primer Undercoat - Brilliant White - Water Based - Interior Wood & Metal - Fast Drying - Low Odour - Dry in 1-2 Hours - 13m2 Coverage per Litre - 1.25 L

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They say that water based paints do not solubilise the colours from the wood, as oil based paints often do, and, therefore, use of knotting is not necessary. If the surface you plan to paint has several layers of old paint on it, you may have to start with a coarser grade of paper to get rid of any imperfections. Always finish off with a finer grade paper like 240 or you’ll end up with scratches that will show through the undercoat and top coat. Wear a dust mask for this part of the job. If prepared properly, you can use almost any paint you want as the top coat. But it would make sense to use satin or gloss, or a variation such as semi-gloss or eggshell, to give a good, hard-wearing, long-lasting finish.

I painted it with two coats of Dulux weathershield White undercoat and three layers of dulux weathershield Oxford blue satin, all water based, I then gave it two coats of Rustins clear exterior varnish. A shellac (or spirit based) primer or an aluminium wood primer will work but there is an easier option. Use a water based acrylic undercoat instead (not a primer, because it will be too thin) and then finish with a coat of oil based undercoat and gloss. Rather than do anything rash I would be tempted to wait a couple of weeks and see if the paint performs better when it has fully hardened, in which case you may be able to touch up any chips.We bought a new pot of paint and have recently employed someone to do the door in the new paint (F&B gloss, same colour). Softwood is highly porous and, in this case, using a water-based system was probably not the best idea since, by their very nature, water-based paints have a high water content and this can cause some timbers to swell and disfigure out of shape. Some of the sills are really old oak and they had a slight sheen on them when I burnt off the old paint. Most of the openers are relatively new and made of softwoods with a lot of wet rot going on.. some of the main outer frame uprights are really resinous, when I used my heat gun on them there was resin pouring out. I am going to paint it with the water based dulux trade satinwood to prevent it from yellowing in the future.

Choose a suitable primer based on the surface you’re painting. For example, gloss is mainly used on wooden skirting boards or ceiling cornices, so a specialist wood primer is the best choice. Secondly, I have used a heat gun to take all paint off my front door side panels which now shows a reddish wood. Water-based primer is best for walls and ceilings. Oil-based primer is primarily used for doors, windows, metal, woodwork, or over tough stains in well-ventilated areas. Q. Which is better: primer or paint with primer? However, it could also be possible that the Zinsser had not cured fully before you painted over it. Although they say you can over paint in an hour I would always advise leaving at least 24 hours when using a different base of finish (longer, if at all possible). Zinsser kind of cover themselves in this regard by adding ‘Full adhesion and hardness develop in 7 days’. And, also, by stating: The problem you refer to with Dulux was indeed well publicised and they did make changes to their formulation to mitigate this. It’s clear, however, that the changes made still do not result in their gloss performing as well as it used to.There are two options when it comes to removing old gloss paint from woodwork: paint stripper or heat gun. I have sanded down to bare wood the front door of my Victorian house . I want to know how to get the best shiniest finish . Should I use aluminium primer with oil based undercoat and gloss? When we get to the lower value colours the colours themselves are’t disimilar at all – The difference between 701 Aluminium and 706 White Aluminium is entirely unclear to me. Chrome is almost the same again, it’s just a bit Shinier.