Nikon AF-S VR 70-300 f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED

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For those looking for the specifics on the max aperture range vs focal length, the breakdown looks approximately something like this: The very best protective filter is the Hoya multicoated HD3 62mm UV which uses hardened glass and repels dirt and fingerprints. While the focus ring on both lenses turns during AF, the 70-300's focus ring does not manually turn in AF mode. The lens hood is rather large, but I recommend to leave it on at all times, since it helps to protect the front element of the lens, in addition to eliminating flare and ghosting (see below). extension tubes will extend the 70-300's macro capabilities as can also be seen in the chart above.

Optical image stabilization is provided, which is always nice to see at longer focal lengths like those offered by the 70-300mm F4-5.6. Fujifilm tells us that the system has a corrective strength of 5.5 stops. That's a full stop better than the system in the 55-200mm, all the more impressive given that with this lens' more powerful telephoto, it has a tougher job to do in the first place.

Dustin Abbott

I use a protective filter instead of a cap. I only use a cap when I throw this in my bag, otherwise I leave a clear filter on my lens at all times. When used on APS-C, it sees the same angle of view as a 105-450mm lens sees when used on a full-frame or 35mm camera. Sharpness will, in general, decrease too for the whole aperture at the edges contrasted with the middle. You will not see it past two-aperture stops. However, you don’t need to have a lot of light when using a zooming lens at this stage. In my testing both as a landscape and walkabout lens as well as for portraits in the studio, the focus was incredibly accurate leaving no questions about its consistency in either situation. It's just as annoying in both directions. Plenty of people shooting smaller formats see it as some sort of competition and often have a chip on their shoulder about it (not saying you do!), do keep in mind there's a lot more enthusiasts than pros or casual users here (specially on the comments section), so there's probably more FF shooters and thus you come across all types.

If this crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same extreme magnification would be about 20 × 30" (50 × 75cm). Enjoy high quality performance, low cost prints and ultimate convenience with the PIXMA G series of refillable ink tank printers. Strong clunking from the uncaged focus and stabilization groups. it sounds like half the lens has fallen off and is rattling around inside, and that's pretty much the way it's supposed to be with this lens. If Jordan & Chris camp on either side of a river, and photograph each other simultaneously (and accurately) with equal settings and equal copies of a Zeiss Planar 50mmF2, then both their photographs will have the same depth of field irrespective of the camera’s sensor: Because the lens is what many photographers would describe as “slow,” just remember with that aperture and focal length, without ideal lighting scenarios, you’ll have to bump up the ISO quite frequently to keep the shutter speeds down. Yes, this lens can be used as a sports lens or action lens, but by no means a professional-level optic (thinking constant f/2.8 aperture), so to accurately and sharply freeze high-speed motion, you’ll need to really bump the iso or have an excessive amount of light available.As I showed at the top, It's very sharp and contrasty at every setting. You won't see any difference in real-world shooting from the 70-200/4 G, 70-200/2.8 GM or 100-400 GM, although people trying to sell you these lenses will try to get you to believe there is a difference. For less money, the B+W 72mm 010 is an excellent filter, as are the multicoated version and the basic multicoated Hoya filters, but the Hoya HD3 is the toughest and the best. If you're expecting to shoot a lot of portraits and need the best possible bokeh, the 100-400mm is certainly a worthwhile upgrade. And that's also true if you need its stronger telephoto, but can't make do with the downsides of using a teleconverter. elements made of ED extra-low dispersion glass to help reduce secondary axial chromatic aberration. Among 300mm-capable telephoto zoom lenses for full-frame mirrorless cameras (As of July, 2022: TAMRON)

The Sony 70-300 has the usual distortion as seen in telephoto zooms, but most, if not all, Sony cameras will correct for this automatically, or can be set to do so, so I won't worry about it. I am getting sharp handheld images consistently at 1/4 or 1/5 second shutter speeds at 70mm and at 1/25 second at 300mm on a full frame body. The reason of it being annoying in both directions is exactly why I refuse to partake in discussions about it... when people start talking about photons of light and all that other stuff it makes you want to never take your camera out again, I suppose one advantage of it is a great sleep aide when a person has insomnia.Up front, you'll find 67mm filter threads. That's a little larger than the 62mm threads on the 55-200mm, but a good bit smaller than the 77mm threads on the 100-400mm, which will put filter costs in between the two. If you shoot RAW and use non-manufacturer software to process the raw data into images, that software is unlikely to be able to correct the distortion as is done in-camera as JPGs.