Buzzy's Slick Honey Cycle Fork Suspension Grease

Product Information

Beside this forks often contain a renewable oil, which will be somewhat similar to oil used inside hubs, and manufacturers also will specify a fork lube. Multi-purpose grease ideal for fork seals, bearing surfaces and other grease-lubricated applications

MUC-OFF: Re-apply before each ride for best results and maximum protection. BIKERUMOR: What’s the best way to clean them first? If the going rate is 12 quid, the it is 12 quid and at 2 quid per fork service then it’s hardly going to eat up the soft food and tinned peach money. MUC-OFF: Start by hosing down thoroughly to remove any dirt but do not force water into the seals. Our Nano Tech Bike Cleaner can be used to remove any stubborn grime and then rinsed and dried with a clean cloth. You can then apply a light coating of Silicon Shine around the stanchion/wiper seal and you are good to go. Dunno, I get paranoid about oils and grease. Put the wrong one on the fork seals and they swell and you’ve got a FUBAR’d fork that needs a complete rebuild.Wow I never noticed that on the label while researching it. I put a third token in my 100 mm Bluto and I am really enjoying the small bump compliance Applying lubrication to the stanchions will attract dirt and debris, which the wiper seal will wipe away upon the next compression, creating a ring of oil and debris that will need to be cleaned before your next ride. With routine 50 hour lower leg service, the fork will provide the necessary lubrication to the stanchions to perform properly until the next service interval is reached. Routine service combined with proper cleaning and inspection can extend the life and performance of your suspension product. If you are a cheap ass that neglects his suspension and doesn’t rebuild it at minimum once a year, you probably want to use external lube to mitigate the damage you are absolutely causing.(Looking at you Midwest, I know you) WET SEAL: Our product Wet Seal was the first lubricant introduced to the industry specifically for suspension forks and this article. In 2014 we had the Suspension Experts in Asheville run a serious of tests on every fork to make sure our formula was 100% safe. MUC-OFF: We recommend our Silicon Shine. BIKERUMOR: Is there any product/type of lube you should NOT use?

Internal hub grease. This is with calcium hydroxide 5-10%, white solid lubricants 2-3.5%, & 2.5-4.1% bentonite, other additives and mineral oil. This grease is calcium-based for wash-resistance, and temperatures are not high. Rumours that Red Bull Hardline will become a series have been roaming the internet corridors a while, so it's perhaps no surprise to have the official news: Hardline will have... I know it’s challenging on free media because money comes from companies, not readers. But wouldn’t it be the whole point of that kind of article that the journalist helps the reader make up his mind ? Instead of just forwarding manufacturer’s fog screen speech ? Of course they all had to answer same question, which is kind of a good start, but… Make sure you orient the lowers on to the upper tubes correctly. The damper side is on the rider's right, and the air spring on the riders left side. Gently slide the upper tubes through the dust wipers without pushing the damper rod and air spring rod all the way through the bottom of the lower. That way we can add bath oil!

Cleaning the stanchions removes any dirt and debris from the surface that the dust wiper seal keeps out of the fork with every compression. This extends the life of your dust wiper seals, minimizes damage to upper tubes, and minimizes lower leg contamination. Fill each syringe with the correct amount of bath oil for each side of the fork. The fork we are servicing here is a 2020 Fox 36 Factory series fork with the Grip 2 damper. For this particular model, we are adding 10cc of Fox 20wt Gold to the air spring side, and 40cc of Fox 5wt Teflon Infuse oil to the damper side of the fork. Oh bloody hell, I’ve got a massive tub of that in the garage somewhere from my old RC35s. I’d completely forgotten about it!

Hydraulic mineral oil - this is for disc brakes, and is different from DOT fluid. Anecdotally people use mineral oil including baby oil, and it 'works'. But Shimano claim that only theirs is good and others can destroy your brakes. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/ Take this with a pinch of salt as there are bunch of hydraulic mineral oils sold specifically for bicycles and no complaints. Different hydraulic mineral oils do have different boiling points, and different viscosity. The oil level slowly drops until you do a lower leg service at 50 hours or whatever interval experience says you need it. MRP: One tip we do recommend is to occasionally flip your bike over to allow the bath oil accumulated at the bottom of your lowers to wet your bushings and seals. If there is a sufficient amount of oil in there, it should splash around as the fork cycles anyway, but to expedite that process and make your fork feel fresh on the first hit, do the above. Take a zip tie and gently push it into the seal, as far as it goes. There may be some air in there. MUC-OFF: Yes! You can’t beat regular cleaning of your whole bike to reduce wear and tear and use a good protectant all over your bike! We wash our bikes after every ride, little and often is better than waiting and turning it into a hellishly big job!Also, some frame couplers specify special fluoro-compound grease, and it's best to follow the instructions or potentially ruin your frame from thread galling. I’d be very surprised if the slightly higher coefficient of friction of the Mobil would be noticeable in the slightest on fork seals tbh. Sounds a bit like the snake oilesque low stiction SKF seals that some folks fit. WET SEAL: A clean, dry Micro-Fiber rag works best. If you’re having trouble getting heavy grease off the seal or stanchions, we recommend using a little bit of water on the micro-fiber rag. DO NOT USE SOAP. Soap will break down the good oils and grease inside your fork which can result in needing an entire rebuild.

Before removing the bottom nuts, make sure the bottom of your fork is raised higher than the steerer tube so that once the bottom nuts are removed, oil will not spill. Now that the fork is full of the correct bath oil, slide the lowers far enough on to the upper tubes so that the damper rod and air spring rod come out of the lower legs. Place the appropriate Fox crush washers in to place and thread both bottom nuts on by hand. I am guessing way to much could reduce the size if the air chamber – but that would have to be a token or twos worth … We need to make sure we have all the right tools for the job. For starters, you will need Fox 20wt Gold Fork Fluid, Fox 5wt Teflon Infused Fork Fluid, Fox 36 foam rings, and Fox crush washers. (DO NOT use the old crush washers) We offer a variety of Fox dust wiper refresh kits.Set your regulator to 0psi (0 bar) and slowly increase pressure over the course of 30 seconds until you reach the appropriate pressure: Besides these other manufacturers sell different greases for the same job, often with different compounds. Different criteria will include: Unfortunately it's not very clear which grease and additives is best, because bicycles are different from lots of other applications in that speeds are quite low, and temperatures not too high. Durability is likely to be important. It is obvious here that lube manufacturers have all interest to support external lubing. Yet it does not mean they are wrong. Often great products come out from an actual need.