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Kodak Gold 200asa 35mm - 36 exp Single

£8.475£16.95Clearance
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I would also suggest getting the largest scans available to you from your lab so that you have plenty of freedom to enlarge and crop and still maintain the film’s fine grain. But Portra 800 is another spectacular option when light gets really low, and I find Portra 800 shines particularly when used for this intended application.

To see a comparison of over a dozen different rolls of film, with test photos all shot on the Canon F1 camera then please check out the full best 35mm film article. When underexposing, or pushing Kodak Gold, you’ll notice that the shadows become muddy and green when they’re shot around ISO 800. Additionally, due to the fine grain structure, this film is well-suited for scanning or enlarging your photographs. The colours are bright without being overbearing or unrealistic, and skin tones come out looking nice and natural.Lighting Conditions: If you will be shooting in low light conditions, you should choose Kodak Ultramax as it has an ISO speed of 400.

Overall, the results you get are balanced and more true-to-life than Fujicolor Industrial 100, for example, with its more prominent green and reds. It wasn’t until launch day that I realized some of my all-time favorite photographers were part of this huge launch. When I put Portra through my camera, there’s always a feeling that I have to be more serious and careful about what I’m taking a photo of.With other budget films, corners have been cut to produce a cheaper product, meaning that you end up with heavy grain. Honestly, since it has such a wide latitude, I usually wing my exposures with my in-camera light meter when shooting Kodak Gold, erring on the side of overexposure. If you’re eyeing on the Canon F1, you can check out our full Canon F1 Review so you can have a complete guide. It’s also inexpensive, and works well as a backup film, even if it doesn’t have the obvious character of some of the more expensive, professional films. So if my film is Portra 400, I would rate it at 800 and tell the lab to push it one stop in development.

So when I shoot those films, I rate my film (program my light meter) to a slower speed like 200 or 100 and meter as usual to overexposed my images.

Pushing film does allow the developer more time to work and find developable grains in the shadows, so there is a marginal speed increase.

If you shoot in the daytime and are after a more sombre look, that warmness we talked about earlier might also mean this isn’t the film for you. C. He’s been taking personal and professional photos on film since 2017 and began developing and printing his own photos after wanting more control than what local labs could offer. That’s because despite what the packaging says, Kodak Pro Image 100 is not a professional film emulsion. But if I’m heading to a professional shoot and there’s still half a roll of Gold in my camera, I’m honestly not going to be worried.

Take care when developing this film – follow Kodak’s recommendation to develop it in full darkness for the best results. When it got to sunset, it was still super pretty, especially with the added warmth, but I seemed to lose a bit of the beautiful sunset colors in some of these frames.

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