I think this one is slightly more complex and mellows better in the dry down on my skin than Coriandre. I find that spraying the current version on clothes keeps the fragrance smelling like those beautiful bracing top-notes and it doesn't dry down into the powdery-sandalwood-patchouli accord that I dislike.

It DOES seem poisonous, like something to definitely be avoided, and is exactly what a witch in an old European fairy tale would smell like. The oakmoss is still there but now it’s more potent; the inky saltiness is back and it smells more like proper oakmoss. After testing it, I walked down the street with a sea breeze in my face and hair, I felt like the epitome of a summer’s day on the beach. There’s a perceivable chamomile smell that was kinda missing, aldehydes, neroli and more civet than before. I never utilize the "spray and walk through" method of putting fragrances on, but I'll make an exception for this one.Well, she certainly didn't need any help in that area as she was one of the most beautiful women that I had ever seen, but I purchased my first bottle shortly thereafter and it was pure HEAVEN, I mean it had an oily, exotic quality to it. Of course it was sitting neglected and of course the Clinique girl seemed a little surprised that a 20-something year old would get excited over this particular gift set, as it's known that Clinique sales people detest AE because it's so strong! It is distinctive but seems to be an almost forgotten unknown perfume; so much so that when I get a whiff of it on another person I feel like we share a secret. The beautiful yellow bottle this comes in also typifies the design of that era (although oddly this was not the original bottle).

However, the florals cloud any bracing freshness/cleanness I'd expect from a fresh-cut wooden structure. Bought my first bottle in the 70's and it has always been one of my favourite cold weather comforters. Vintage Aromatics Elixir sprayed on CLOTHES: Dries down to a balsamic sweetness that gets more intense with time. The modern has a stronger floral arrangement upon first spraying, whereas the vintage hits you with the herbs and patchouli straight away.Fast forward at least a day, maybe it was more like three, I was walking around, and had that "oh my god, what is that amazing smell?

The top, aromatic note is dominated by verbena, sage and chamomile, which give way to the sweet floral notes of geranium, rose and white flowers: ylang ylang, jasmine and tuberose. I’m not a big patchouly fan so it might be that mixed with the coriander and sage was what annoyed me? Aromatics Elixir, in addition to being one of the last true chypres of History, is pure magic : ultra-feminine on a woman, ultra-masculine on a man, or vice versa depending on your state of mind, it never ceases to amaze and delight me.Sadly however, the "deep" part doesn't apply much to the current formula which is stripped of some important layers; but instead we swim in some waist-high waters. People talk about reformulation panic as if it's an imagined problem, but my new batch bottle definitely does NOT live up to the beast mode reputation. This current formulation brings it closer to the 80’s formula and remarkably close to Genny, the original Diana de Silva production.

As a teen I strongly hated it--too powdery, too overwhelming, too dark (at that time I prefer a light and fresh scent). I've had someone tell me it smells like an "old lady perfume" but I think that's because modern popular perfumes are so uninspired that anything a little out of the ordinary is too complicated for contemporary sensibilities.Well, this is pretty much like watching a performance from a Hollywood star look-alike, say Marilyn Monroe. when I tried it on my first thought was "wow, that's strong," quickly followed by "wow, I've definitely smelled this before. Some of the classic bitter ones, like Bandit and Magie Noire, I can appreciate but not wear all the time. While it is not a personal favourite chypre (that honour goes to Jubilation 25 - AE is slightly too sweet for my taste), it is an undeniable masterpiece. I don't find it at all unpleasant, but I wonder whether the same accord wouldn't be a nightmare for someone such as my mum, who can't wear anything civety-musky without immediately needing to wash it off.