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It's an exfoliator which means that it speeds up the shedding of dead skin cells on the upper layers and when they go, so too will your fake tan. But remember it won't necessarily be an even removal so patchiness could occur. You have been warned. Can glycolic acid treat acne? As we mentioned above, glycolic acid is an AHA and salicylic acid is a BHA. "Glycolic acid molecules are smaller and they work by exfoliating the top layers of the skin, helping skin shed old, dead skin cells and reveal newer skin underneath, which leads to a more even skin texture and tone," says Dr. Hartman. Saadawi AN, Esawy AM, Kandeel AH, El-Sayed W. Microneedling by dermapen and glycolic acid peel for the treatment of acne scars: Comparative study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(1):107-114. View abstract. Rawlings AV, Davies A, Carlomusto M, et al. Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Arch Dermatol Res 1996;288:383-90. View abstract. For depressed scars (the most common type associated with inflammatory acne), when used in strengths of 70% as a peel, the acid removes the outer layers of damaged skin resulting in a more smooth, uniform surface. It’s collagen-building properties have been shown to have a modest affect in reducing the depth of these types of scars.
If you're just starting to incorporate glycolic acid into your skincare regimen, I would suggest using a gentle glycolic cleanser to get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a leave-on glycolic product,’ suggests Dr Tailor. ‘Glycolic acid is most effective when administered as a chemical peel by your cosmetic doctor – they utilise stronger ingredients for more potent effects.’ Pre-, peri-, and post-treatment guidelines using medium-depth peels. As mentioned earlier, depth of peeling is directly correlated with cumulative dose exposure of the skin to a given acid. In other words, for any given length of exposure, higher concentrations of a given acid will cause deeper chemoexfolation, as will multiple layers of application or multiple “passes” over the same area. With medium-depth peels, this can be of critical concern, as exfoliation down into the papillary dermis is often achieved with a single first-pass application. Thus, combination treatments with a pre-treatment agent (e.g., Jessner’s solution or solid CO2), followed by a lower concentration of a medium-depth acid(e.g., 50–70% glycolic acid or 35% TCA) have become increasingly popular due to their demonstrated equal clinical efficacy to the original 50% TCA peels of the past. These combination treatments provide a more uniform and controlled depth peeling with a greater safety margin and a reduced incidence of dyschromias and scarring. 2 , 3 , 5 , 7 – 9 , 15 , 19 – 23 Here, we’ll explain what glycolic acid is, the beauty benefits associated with it, how to use this potent ingredient, and any negative consequences. What is glycolic acid? Kaminaka C, Uede M, Matsunaka H, Furukawa F, Yamomoto Y. Clinical evaluation of glycolic acid chemical peeling in patients with acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative study. Dermatol Surg. 2014 Mar;40(3):314-22. View abstract. Helps fight acne."By exfoliating the top layer of dead skin on the skin’s surface, you minimize the risk that the old, dead skin gets mixed with sebum, which creates acne," says Dr. Hartman.Building glycolic acid-based products into an anti-ageing routine couldn’t be simpler. There are a wide range of anti-ageing products that have jumped on the glycolic acid bandwagon, and for good reason.
Be mindful of the other products in your skincare arsenal. While each serves its own incredibly useful purpose, make sure you aren’t doubling up on other products containing Vitamin A or AHAs or your skin could become more sensitive, putting you more at risk of environmental damage. Kim et al did a comparative study using 70% GA and Jessner’s Solution (resorcinol 14%, lactic acid 14%, and salicylic acid 14%, in an alcohol base), respectively, in two groups of patients with acne. Three peel sessions were done for each group. Though acne improved in both to the same extent, there was more exfoliation seen in the Jessner’s Solution group. Hence, GA was found to be the better tolerated of the two peels for the treatment of acne in Asian patients. 23 Glycolic acid is the most popular and certainly the most widely studied of the alpha hydroxy acid family. Its chemical makeup is small compared to other AHA family members, so it is easily absorbed and able to penetrate skin at a very deep level which makes it an effective at helping to combat a variety of skincare woes. Glycolic acid’s known benefits include its anti-ageing properties, effectiveness in treating acne and its ability to exfoliate the skin while maintaining a natural PH balance. Safe for all skin types, glycolic acid is easy to use and an essential part of any skin-care routine. As a humectant, glycolic acid draws and retains moisture within the skin to maintain hydration which effectively strengthens the skin barrier and skin health. Acne treatmentTo use it for exfoliation, consider using it in conjunction with a secondary moisturiser. L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Renew Home Peel Kit can be used for a multitude of benefits, including exfoliation and hydration. Dorgham NA, Hegazy RA, Sharobim AK, Dorgham DA. Efficacy and tolerability of chemical peeling as a single agent for melasma in dark-skinned patients: A systematic review and meta-analysis of comparative trials. J Cosmet Dermatol 2020;19(11):2812-2819. View abstract. The results of the linear analog scale correlated with the other findings in that there was no significant difference in the degree of improvement using HQ alone vs combination therapy with HQ and glycolic acid peels. Furthermore, physician global evaluation results supported these findings in that the treatment-masked investigator could not detect a greater degree of improvement on either side of the face. The patient global evaluation, however, revealed that almost three fourths of the patients noted improvement on the side that was peeled. This subjective patient bias emphasizes the importance of masking and controls in the performance of clinical trials. It may also explain why glycolic acid peels are so popular among patients. Perhaps the smoothening and softening of the skin produced by these peels is responsible for their high acceptance rather than their ability to reduce hyperpigmentation. If you're new to glycolic acid, it's best to ease into using the chemical exfoliant. "Start using it slowly, with a lower concentration of 10 percent or less, or with a glycolic acid cleanser," says Corey L. Hartman, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. As your skin adjusts over time, you can start adding products with the sloughing acid into your regime in higher concentrations.
GA peels have frequently been combined with other peels and treatments, to give better results. In a study by the author, microneedling was combined with 35% GA peel to treat acne scars in patients with skin type III–IV. Microneedling was performed six-weekly, and 35% GA peel was performed 3 weeks after each microneedling session. There was significant improvement in superficial and moderately deep atrophic box scars and rolling scars. In addition, there was improvement in skin texture and reduction in post-acne pigmentation. 46 If you're looking to simplify your skincare routine with a product that provides all the benefits of minimized pores, younger-looking skin and a clear, radiant complexion, keep your eyes peeled (pun intended) for glycolic acid. Kligman AM. Topical treatments for photoaged skin. Separating the reality from the hype. Postgrad Med 1997;102:115-26. View abstract. Standardized photographs were taken of all patients with 35-mm color, polarized color, and UV photographs at baseline and at the end of the study (stereotactic camera; Canfield Scientific Inc, Fairfield, NJ). Ultraviolet reflectance photography is especially useful for detecting changes in pigmentation over time, as epidermal melanin detection using UV photography is 10 times more sensitive than with visible light. 10 , 11 As glycolic acid is a highly concentrated acid, it’s frequently used in at-home exfoliating treatments; most popularly in chemical peels. Benefits of glycolic acid
Glycolic acid offers several skin revitalizing benefits. As a keratolytic, it can effectively penetrate the surface layer of skin to gently dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, enabling them to slough off. This exfoliative action reveals skin that is more youthful, smooth and fresh. Skin imperfections can be caused by bacteria on the skin. 3 Glycolic acid is a potent antibacterial agent and can, in some cases, reduce the appearance of blemishes. 4 Purging typically lasts for four to six weeks and it is a sign that the product is working, as it is bringing impurities to the surface of the skin. After the purging period, the skin should look clearer and more even-toned. While glycolic acid can be beneficial in conjunction with other, gentler exfoliators like salicylic acid, when combined with stronger exfoliants like retinol, it can be too strong for most skin types,’ warns Dr Tailor. ‘Overall it's actually very safe – so much so that we can use this active ingredient during pregnancy.’
Well, it’s got a lot to do with its seriously effective exfoliating properties. Unlike a physical exfoliator (or scrub), glycolic acid works to chemically exfoliate the skin, making it a hero ingredient amongst those that suffer from breakouts, dullness and pigmentation. But glycolic isn’t just your average skin acid, its low molecular weight makes it exceptionally effective and able to penetrate the skin at a much deeper level than its other acid counterparts. Derms advice you only using active ingredients with different pH levels at different times of the day, as using them together can cause irritation. For example, using a low pH product like glycolic acid in the morning and a high pH product like vitamin C in the evening is a good idea.
Sound like something you might benefit from? Here’s our pick of the best glycolic products available…
The kit contains L’Oréal Paris’s Revitalift Laser Renew Anti Ageing Glycolic Peel Pads and L’Oreal Paris’s Laser Renew Advanced Anti Ageing Care SPF 20. The former of the two products contains ready-to-use glycolic acid pads that are perfect for incorporating daily exfoliation into your routine. The second product is all about protecting your fresh new skin cells from the harmful effects of UVA/UVB rays. This cream is enriched with a 3% concentration of Pro-Xylane™ and LHA, all wrapped up in a triple action formula that when combined helps to refirm, refine, and shield your skin from damage. A kit like this is perfect for daily use. We’re pretty sure you’ll notice a transformation in your skins luminosity and smoothness in no time at all. If you’re less concerned about acne or wrinkles but find yourself with pesky dry patches or unevenness that you’d like to treat, consider glycolic acid an easy ally to the cause. Sharad J. Combination of microneedling and glycolic acid peels for the treatment of acne scars in dark skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011 Dec;10(4):317-23. View abstract.
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