Joined in 2023 
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While the noob watch themselves have been highly touted for some time now, the movement itself leaves a lot to be desired per my recent encounters. I looked around for a review of the Asia 2813 by The Zigmeister but I could not find one. Please feel free to post it if I overlooked it. It's a regmariner. I sadly messed up the movement on the first day of me owning it, so i'm quite sad but really wanting to get it up and running so i can start finally enjoying it to it's fullest. Once I get to grips with it, I'll post the freeCAD design on thingiverse and you can also PM me for it from here 🙂 Rotor, take 2: the first time You use a 2813 You will not be able to avoid it rotating endlessly; as soon as the wrist "adapts" itself to it You will have perfect control over when it spins or not; it´s a fact You will never get to this stage if You put it off as rubbish after a few hours to never wear again; The added beauty of mechanical watches is that you have hand-wound it for it to keep functioning. There is something wonderful about having the routine of winding your watch at the end of the day—it helps you establish this connection with time. And the fact that you have to do all these rituals just to keep it working is an experience that is one of a kind.
In spite of an identically designed indirectly-driven second hand, this movement is less often reported suffering 'stutter' than the Sea-Gull ST16 or Claro-Semag CL888. Power reserve: because of the lowbeat movement the power reserve is longer than on the asian ETA, it runs and runs and runs - well over 42 hours; Wow, great minds think alike, I use freeCAD and also have a 3D printer being delivered by Santa 🎅, I currently have to bribe my son to use his. I was was thinking on Friday afternoon that it may be cool to try some parametric modelling in freeCAD and sketched out a parametric movement holder. My idea was to measure the movement outer diameter and then let freeCAD spit out the complete design. Just like Asian 2836 movement watches, this watch also have a good power reserve. When a person decides to start using the watch, there is no doubt a person will enjoy using it for a long time? There are some watches which stop after a very short time. These watches stop because the power reserve is not adequate to support the watch for a very long time. I read this as I was looking for the definitive answer on the DG4813, which I eventually went elsewhere for.The noisy rotor is also annoying, although my gen Speedmaster (reduced, auto) is noisy, but it does not spin for eternity. So, let’s start with Guangzhou Dixmont movements, because it’s the most common movements in our replicas. Sorry. I never knew about the reliability issue. I thought the DG4813 is identical to the 2813 in all aspects in terms of design with slight changes to the train gears for the faster 8bps. The movement is slimmer and uses a shorter canon pinion, stem height is also different. But other then that the overall design should be identical. I have successfully transplanted DG2813's tall canon pinion to the 4813 before with no issue. You can see a comparison of all 11.5 ligne movements on this thread I use a towel as working surface - yes, you read well, a towel! - because is the only surface I tried where the falling parts do not bounce and dissapear into outer space (or anywhere down the floor, I mean). After started using it, saved me from hours of looking at the floor trying to find missing micro parts, you really want to cry when it happens.
The DG2813 is based on the Miyota 8215, and the 4813 is a high beat version of that. These are the same size-ish as the ETA 2824/38 movements but have different hand sizes and dial feet positions, so you cant swap them around easily. Seagull make creditable copies of the ETA movements and I have built several watches using the ST2130 which is a good accurate movement. To complicate the matter. Just like the Swiss, Chinese factories offers different levels of finish on their movements. To see an explanation on grades that ETA offers, see here This is a type of watch that is highly accurate. It is important for a person to make sure that they have chosen a watch that will keep on showing time correctly. For a person desires then going for this watch remains one of the best options at their disposal. Also l1 is the cutout for the stem/crown, was thinking of making it U shaped rather than square, but would model it as a square and simply fillet the corners to make it a U shape.The 'DG' designation indicates that the movement was manufactured by Dixmont Guangzhou, however the virtually identical movement is also manufactured by the Nanning Watch Factory with calibre prefix 'NN' which has been reputed to be slightly higher quality (but given the recent significant investment in DG, that hierarchy might no longer hold). The prestigious Beijing Watch Factory have also made movements on this pattern which are of a much higher standard of finish. There may be other factories producing movements on this same pattern, or at least assembling ebauches from one of the others. FONT="]The most well known movement factories are Tianjin Seagull, Shanghai Watch Co, and Guangzhou Dixmont. Seagull produce clones of ETA movements, and tons of in-house movements, mostly low beat (21,600bph). The best chinese made tourbillons, ST-800 series, come from Seagull factory. Shanghai manufacture 3L series (hi-beat 28,800) chrono movements, mostly clones of Valjoux7750 and Valjoux7753. They also produce plenty of in-house movements, including tourbillons. Guangzhou Dixmont is famous for their DG series – from the simplest DG-2813 (infamous 21j), to the most complicated tourbillons DG-8000 series, manual and auto. When you wish to also service the mainspring and barrel, you’ll need braking grease (I use Glissalube 20 mostly) and the other appropriate lubes.
Mechanical watch does not need battery because a mainspring that is hand-wound drives it. This is a good thing because you will not have to worry about replacing the battery. If the watch stops working, just look for someone to wind it up or you can do it yourself. I hope this helps some people and finally answers a few question definitively. It was quite a chore to figure this all out. Sea-gull, a Tianjin based company are well known on f72 due to the excellent quality of their movements and complete watches. I do not know of a 2813 that Sea-gull makes, so I can not comment on the actual quality of this particular movement. There are however many dissemble thread here by lysanderxiii that show that sea-gull's quality is indeed very good, they can go head to head with many Japanese or Swiss makers. - https://www.watchuseek.com/f72/two-more-movements-reduced-parts-even-more-images-207931.html But seriously I couldn't find any reliability issue with the 4813. I only have 3 watches with that movement for the past 5 years, no problem with any of them at all. Care to point to the problem you are describing. I'm quite unsure about the process of getting a watch repaired, especially one with a movement such as this.First of all, will a watchsmith be able to repair a 21j in the event that I need something repaired? At the point where I decided to stop trying to get it more closely adjusted, I knew it was gaining. The question was how much? I had been wearing it for several days at that point and knew that it had a pretty good power reserve built up. Here are my results. h3 = 5mm (will only need this outer dimension also to be h3 if I decide to keep the 'shoulders' at the top of the model, thinking I may just skip the outer shoulders and have the top and bottom linked by an ark without the shoulders... I will need to think about this....any ideas??? My initial thinking is that the shoulders may flex a little as you push the movement in and grip the movement better, but not sure how realistic this idea is?) - see version 1 and version 2 below. Can anybody chime in? I think that would be ridiculous, why wouldn't a watchsmith want to repair ANY particular watches, that's kinda what they do for a living. I would understand if it's hard for them to source a part, or unfamiliar with the movement, but I don't see how that would be possible considering i'm sure they're having to service/repair all different types of watches as a watchsmith. Does anybody have any thoughts on the validity of my theory, and how I might free up the auto winding? If not, and it continues to perform this way I can always wear it by winding it manually once (or twice?) a day.
An individual can therefore enjoy using the watch for long hours without having to find a way of adding some power to the watch. It can be annoying when a person discovers that their watch keeps on stopping after a very short time. If a person is using a watch that has issues with power then they will be forced to find an alternative way of getting things done. Something else to note, the beat is 21K, not 28K.. Most of you know this. This is not disclosed, most noob watch descriptions simply states Asian 2813 movement. This flaw is as visibly noticeable as any other though, if not more. These watches seem to be somewhat popular. Unfortunately, there is also a fair bit of confusion surrounding them. For the sake of archiving the information I have gathered, I'm going to post it here and in the original PD-1617 thread.Those people who go for other types of watches might be forced to put up with noisy motors for a very long time. It can be annoying for a person to continue living in a noisy environment especially for those who take part in activities that require keen attention. Your guide seems really simple, but i would need to buy a proper toolkit i suppose. Thank you very much for the help, i really do appreciate it a lot. Power-reserve should be at least 40 hours. The uni-directional winding gives a bit of ratchet noise but it does its job very effectively. Hand-winding feels like you're doing something wrong, but it should start with a shake anyway. BUT beware the generic term Asian 21J as there are factories producing their version of the DG2813 and ST2130 movements and the quality can be very rough, and there are even nastier movements at the bottom of the rep price scale.
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