More unusual rice-based dishes include banh can, which are tiny, waffle-like rice pancakes. Also, there are banh trang tron (literally, “mixed rice paper”), a student favorite made from a tantalizing blend of dry rice paper, shredded green mango, quail’s eggs, dried shrimp, fresh herbs, crispy shallots, and roasted peanuts. It’s tossed in a dressing of soy sauce, sate sauce, and kumquat juice. Eating and drinking get the most out of your gastronomic experience as we reveal the regional dishes and drinks you have to try Flight prices peak during July and August, coinciding with the warmest weather on the central coast. There’s another peak from December to March when many visitors head to Phu Quoc island and the hiking trails of the northwest. Watch for more price spikes associated with local holidays such as Reunification Day on 30 April, International Workers’ Day on 1 May and the Tet lunar new year celebrations in January or February, when it can feel like the whole country is on the move. Fly into Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) rather than Hanoi Remember to plan for the weather. The summer heat and humidity can sap energy, and the heavy rain brought in by the southwest monsoon from May to September and the northeast monsoon from October to April can put a dampener on family fun. All this moisture is heaven for mosquitoes – use repellent with a high concentration of DEET (diethyltoluamide), and minimize exposed skin.

More comfortable than buses and cheaper than flights, train travel is another option for getting around Vietnam. A railway line spans the length of the country, following the coastline from HCMC all the way to Hanoi and beyond. It's a must for rail enthusiasts, with the ride considered amongst the most amazing train journeys in the world. Be aware of your surroundings Planning tip: You’ll need an international driving permit to ride legally in Vietnam, and this is only available for some nationalities. Many travelers manage to rent a motorcycle without a permit, but if things go wrong, you won’t be covered by your travel insurance. 9. See the American War through Vietnamese eyes Self-drive rental cars are almost impossible to find in Vietnam, which is a blessing considering the local traffic conditions, but it’s easy to rent a vehicle with a driver – who will also double as an informal tour guide and (hopefully) take you to places you would otherwise miss. You also won’t have to worry about getting the right driving license or extra car insurance. Planning tip: Various viewpoints vie for the title of best vista in Vietnam – yes, that’s a lot of ‘v’s – but the lookouts gazing over the Dong Van Karst Plateau are strong contenders. The area is designated as a Unesco Geopark, and the trip from Yen Minh to Dong Van and over the Mai Pi Leng Pass to Meo Vac is particularly spectacular. 11. Find a perfect cup of coffee in the Central Highlands

Be wary of taxi scams

Cat Tien National Park covers 72,000 hectares (177,916 acres) of lowland tropical rainforest that teems with biodiversity. While there are elephants and leopards hiding amid the foliage, you’re more likely to spot primates such as gibbons, pygmy lorises and langurs, alongside reptiles, amphibians and myriad bird species. Hill-tribe treks from Sapa are a core part of the tourist experience in northern Vietnam, and hiking here is quite mainstream these days. Still, there are still rewarding experiences to be had if you go with a guide who speaks the languages of local minority groups and can get you acquainted with the diverse communities that French colonizers grouped together under the umbrella term Montagnards (mountain-dwellers). Lonely Planet's Vietnam is our most comprehensive guide that extensively covers all the country has to offer, with recommendations for both popular and lesser-known experiences. Kayak through Halong Bay, sample street food in Hanoi and immerse yourself in a rich history; all with your trusted travel companion. Many families give Vietnam bonus points for its food – while dishes may be unfamiliar, they’re rarely spicy (heat is usually added separately in the form of chili sauces). Crispy Vietnamese pancakes, banh mi sandwiches, bowls of pho (noodle soup), fried spring rolls and bun cha (grilled pork with vermicelli noodles) usually go down well. Different bus companies offer different levels of comfort. At the top of the scale are deluxe sleeper services between major cities, with minimal stops en route. You’ll get a reclining seat or even a seat that converts into a horizontal bed, but you’ll need earplugs to sleep through the onboard karaoke sessions and screenings of music videos and martial arts films. Companies such as The Sinh Tourist and Mai Linh Express offer online booking.

Booking transport, accommodation and tours ahead of time is not essential, but it’s a good way to avoid disappointment if you come at a busy time, such as July and August on the central coast. If you plan to be in Vietnam during the Tet (Lunar New Year) festival in late January or early February, having transport and accommodation in place before you arrive is a very sensible precaution.Where to try it: In Hanoi, be sure to sample bia hoi – a crisp, clean-tasting low-alcohol draft beer – at Bia Hoi Corner, at the junction of Luong Ngoc Quyen Street and Ta Hien Street. Vegans and vegetarians Where to try it: Served over thread-like bun noodles, bun cha is made from artfully seasoned barbecued pork patties; enjoy it at its best at Bun Cha 34 in Hanoi. Buns of all kinds, from Chinese bao to French baguettes

However, the cave is rich in other forms of life. 'We have seen monkeys that are able to climb down 200m to visit the jungle within the cave where they collect snails,' says Limbert. 'We’ve also seen snakes and other animals including squirrels, rats, flying fox as well as birds and bats.' He and his team also discovered seven new species of fish, spider, scorpion, shrimp, wood lice and plankton – all of them completely white and without eyes, the evolutionary consequences of existing in complete darkness. Wrapped around the east coast of mainland Southeast Asia like a mythical Naga serpent, Vietnam naturally lends itself to overland travel. Its two biggest cities – Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) – are divided by 1100km of rice paddies, tropical jungles, historic townships, wartime relics, national parks and sandy beaches, and most people plot an itinerary that takes in both of these lively hubs. Spring rolls – an umbrella term for various stuffings rolled inside rice paper shells – take a delectable variety of forms in Vietnam. You’ll find them crispy and fried in the north as nem ran ha noi. In the south goi cuon are soft and light, stuffed with shrimp, pork, fresh vegetables, and cold bun noodles. How you traverse the lush, green Vietnamese countryside is up to you. The famous Reunification Express train line linking Hanoi and HCMC is the obvious choice, with great views and stops all along the Vietnamese coast, but you can also hopscotch around by local bus or zip around by motorcycle, taking in places off the main tourist trail. Traveling by boat is a particularly evocative way to explore, tracing Vietnam’s meandering rivers and buzzing out to islands offshore.

Be open

To answer in one word, a resounding yes. But good doesn’t always translate to easy. Vietnam’s fascinating cities, for example, have plenty to keep kids entertained, but you’ll have to balance this against alarming traffic, air pollution and the rapid onset of fatigue that comes with urban exploring.

Many of Vietnam’s top hikes are best attempted with local support. The tropical terrain can be challenging, the weather can be unpredictable and you’ll need someone who speaks the local languages to make arrangements for meals and accommodation in hill-tribe communities. If you combine a trek with a village homestay – which we heartily recommend – it’s possible to escape the crowds and find the hospitality and captivating culture that first put Vietnam on the travel map. Central Vietnam’s network of caves has transformed the region. Once one of Vietnam’s poorest, it is now the world’s most popular spot for cave exploration and the country’s fastest-growing tourist destination. For Howard Limbert and his team this is all well and good, but conservation remains a paramount concern, especially as 70% of the region’s caves remain unexplored. 'All customers must follow strict rules to protect the fragile caves,' he reminded us. Eating out as a family is generally easy – tourist-oriented restaurants can often provide high chairs or a cushion to boost tots up to table height. Families eat together everywhere, so there’s no need to worry about the kids being noisy during dinner. Use antibacterial hand gel to ward off tummy bugs. Nha Trang is perhaps the best beach town in Vietnam for teens. The sand is just the start of the seaside fun – fill days with dive and snorkeling trips, boat tours, bathing in hot springs and natural mud baths and surfing sessions just south of Nha Trang at Bai Dai beach. Then there’s VinWonders, a boisterous complex of waterslides and rides (including a giant Ferris wheel) on Hon Tre island, a short boat ride across the bay. Make a splash in Dalat

Breathtaking landscapes appear at every turn in Vietnam. From the window of a trundling train you'll witness an endless patchwork of impossible-green rice paddies, while in Halong Bay a horizon studded with incisor-like limestone islands makes an ethereal sight. From Mui Ne in the deep south, where you can wonder at a Sahara-esque scene of wind-sculpted sand dunes from the basket of a hot-air balloon, to the stupendous karst mountains of the far north, Vietnam offers up a bewitching array of superlative landscapes. Halong Bay Metered taxis in Vietnam are very affordable by global standards. Unfortunately, some drivers in tourist areas refuse to use the meter, and we hear regular stories of meters being rigged to ramp up fares. If you take cabs, rides booked through the Grab app tend to be cheaper than taxis hailed in the street. As with anywhere in the tropics, there are tropical illnesses to be aware of in Vietnam. See your doctor at least a month before you travel to get up to date with vaccinations, and arrange anti-malarial medication if you plan to visit rural areas. The former French Hill station of Sapa is surrounded by mountains so impressive that French colonizers called them the “Tonkinese Alps,” and the surrounding villages of the H'Mong and Dao ethnic minorities have become popular destinations for hikers – and somewhat commercialized in the process.