Allows painting of new render finishes and re-pointing repairs without alkaline contamination of the paint, which would otherwise delay painting by up to 2 months. You should then be able to paint the wall as normal with 2 regular coats of masonry paint but keep an eye out for any signs of bubbling in the weeks after. This would indicate a high density of moisture content that is trying to force its way out. Would you recommend the use of sandtex stabilising solution as a primer to prevent the paint failure?? Furthermore, the stabilising solution and PVA will both act to keep any moisture within the concrete, hence why you experiencing problems. The moisture will force its way out eventually. Kingfisher “Weatherflex Stabilising Solution” is available in 5 litre plastic containers. It should be stored in a cool, dry area, AVOID frost and direct sunlight. Shelf life of the product in, unopened sealed containers is 12 months.

Stabilises and hardens “friable” masonry or masonry surfaces which may have “gone soft” due to extreme weathering. Below is a sample of questions received on the subject of stabilising primers… White dust on stonework? For our situation it is a little too soon to tell the success of Lakeland’s stabilising solution on our bathroom problem wall area. This one wall area (a small cluster of patches) is particularly troublesome with a gradual peeling and bubbling appearance (under the painted surface) And this taking time to reappear once you cover with a fresh coat of paint. However what we have noticed is the Lakeland’s stabilising solution is not only pleasant and odourless —and oddly almost as transparent as tap water—and you're not sure if this only a water that you’re applying : ) However a noticeable difference is apparent once we painted over Lakeland's stabilising solution with white pigmented organic emulsion paint There seems to be a far more opaque surface quality that seems to suggest that not only is Lakeland's stabilising solution useful for troublesome unstable or damp patches on many types of wall surfaces but also this medium improves the colour density of the applied painted areas. Dry and chalky areas can sometimes be primed with a watered down coat. But if the area has already been treated with a stabilising solution I would paint over this with unthinned masonry paint. Normally, masonry walls can be primed with a thinned solution of water-based masonry paint. But, sometimes, the surface can be loose and/or powdery and this can cause problems.You may find that this process removes a lot of the loose particles on the surface, presenting you with a solid surface which can easily be primed with a thineed solution of masonry paint. The white dust is probably efflorescence – moisture in the stonework will draw out any salts and, provided this isn’t excessive, is perfectly normal. In such cases, I always recommend that the wall is left exposed to weather for at least 12 months prior to painting. I am about to re-paint some stonework outside my house. It has previously been painted, but in areas it is a little flaky and kind of like white dust build up, think it’s salt or something like that.

This moisture may force itself out eventually and cause the paintwork to bubble and/or subsequently flake-off. I have tried stabilising solution and PVA but the problem keeps recurring. Any suggestions to prevent this happening would be helpful. I would not normally advise painting since this is going to present yet another barrier to any trapped moisture evaporating away naturally without causing further damage. With newly rendered surfaces, it is normal to have a certain level of dust and/or powder on the surface as a result of the drying-out process.If this be the case then scrape off any loos paint, allow to dry out over a period of a few weeks and paint again. You may well find this is an ongoing process or it may be isolated to one or two problem areas. An algebraic Riccati equation is a type of nonlinear equation that arises in the context of infinite-horizon optimal control problems in continuous time or discrete time. However, once it’s rubbed the surface below is relatively solid. I am worried that if I paint the surface with sandtex it could bubble if I don’t stabilise. When you have removed as much loose material as possible, treat the worst affected areas with a stabilising solution which will bind any reaming loose martial, presenting you with a solid surface on which to paint. Only do this on the very worst affected areas though. Would you ever used a watered down first coat on areas of render that are dry and chalky so have been treated with stabilising solution?

A subject that crops up a lot on the topic of exterior wall paint is ‘Stabilising Solution’ or ‘Primer’. Using a stabiliser where not absolutely necessary can impede the performance of any subsequent coats because it isn’t ‘breathable’ and may keep any natural moisture trapped beneath the wall’s surface. One coat should normally be sufficient but very porous surfaces may require additional coats. Drying time will vary depending on the ambient temperature, but normally 4 – 8 hours should be allowed for each coat to fully dry. For the best results allow surfaces to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before applying the Weatherflex Smooth Masonry Paint. DO NOT apply when air or surface temperatures are below 8 °C.I am planning to go over the loose areas with a wire brush and paint scraper. Would you say that it would be best to go over the areas that have the white dust build up with a stabilising solution, as the old paint is very flaky in these areas? For larger areas of filler I roughly smoothed over, then again used the paintbrush to texture and blend in the filler. Just scraping over with a knife will leave a smooth area which will show through the paint

Just bear in mind that the stabilising solution will impair the breathability of the finishing coats so only apply to areas where it’s really necessary.

Tools and equipment should be cleaned with warm soap and water immediately after use. Pump sprayers especially should be thoroughly flushed through with warm soapy water and then flushed with clean water until free of all residues. DO NOT allow to dry before cleaning. Eventually I repainted with a water based masonry paint. Every year since then the paint has bubbled and I have had to scrape and repaint.