If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started. Dinitrol also leaves a skin when applied onto your vehicle and stays soft underneath it allowing it to self-heal in temperatures that it is subjected to. This means that it will self-heal over small stone chips and scratches too.

Rust prevention is a rewarding job and one that everyone should think about that owns a vehicle, especially those that are an enthusiast about their classic car. It is part of ongoing maintenance for your vehicle and an important step in classic car restoration. hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop

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We will be happy to organise an exchange for the correct goods at no extra charge to yourself, please get in touch to organise this. Faulty Items Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ?

More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better. Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added.True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid. I’ve decided to use POR15, based on lots of advice on here. I bought some last year before I had the gunge put on, but didn’t use it, seemed too much like hard work. So I’m writing this whilst having a cup of coffee, after having used it today. I followed the instructions to the letter, POR Degreaser first, followed by Etch primer, and finally the first thin coat of POR 15… looks good so far and the next coat goes on in a couple of hours. Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water.

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I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code. I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and Our UK weather provides the ideal weather for rust on your vehicle nowadays. With our ever-increasing harsh winters bringing rain and snow it is a perfect time for your vehicle to start getting rust on it. We also find our roads being treated with more and more salt to combat these bad road conditions too. Therefore, you need to think about your rust prevention for your vehicle Here are a few pros and cons of these treatments for your vehicle and why rust prevention is very important to your vehicle. What is the difference between Waxoyl and Dinitrol? Waxoyl is a wax type and Dinitrol is a grease type of treatment. The wax type of treatment has white spirit as the carrier and the grease type of treatment has mineral oil as the carrier. It will come down to personal choice which one you chose for your vehicle. Clutching hot waxoil injector thingy, part filled with waxoil and mixed with very very warm white spirit I squirted and soaked the chassis blasting away, and also practising holding my breath as it went misty in the workshop.

It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said…I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily! So why am I sharing this, well just to advise caution if you think that a chassis is in good condition because it has been waxoyled, in my case this was definitely not so… all it served to do was mask the rust gremlins that are our very worst enemy.