However, both these theories do not hold good as phulkari is practiced and worn by all the people of Punjab from early 19th century. It is considered as a symbol of suhag and therefore forms a very important part of a bride’s trousseau.

TRADITIONAL INDIAN EMBROIDERY - Textile Magazine, Textile TRADITIONAL INDIAN EMBROIDERY - Textile Magazine, Textile

The phulkaris have been given different names according to the designs embroidered, colors of the base fabric, threads used, and its usage. The various types of phulkaris are: Zari is also known as Zardosi embroidery. This type of embroidery exists in India from the time of Rigveda. Zardozi is a combination of two Persian terms zari means gold and dozi means embroidery. Zari embroidery is done using gold and silver thread for embroidery work. Surat and Varanasi at the Paramount centers for making the metal thread known as Kalabathi. This embroidery prosper during the Mughal period and was done on silk. It involves preparing complex designs using gold and silver threads and studded pearls and precious stones and magnificence to the work.Phulkari Makers Bassi Pathana (PMBP), Mehar Baba Charitable Trust, Punjab, India http://www.mbtrust.org/phulkari-makers.html

‘Phulkari’ – Harman Kaur | naujawani

Over the last month I have been reading ‘Phulkari’ by Harman Kaur, a collection of poetry and prose put into print for this poetess’ debut work. Available to buy online, ‘Phulkari’ is an English language anthology created by a young, barely twenty-something, turbaned female residing on the west coast of Canada. Occupying a space and time that sees its fair share of violence, minority-bashing, and community organising, I was intrigued to read her insights – how would she balance out the Sikh, Punjabi, Canadian and Milennial influences that pervade a generation’s lives? Chope: this Phulkari embroidery is made by the bride’s maternal grandmother (naani) when the bride was born. The Holbein stitch is used in the chope phulkari and so, both the sides of the phulkari contain the same design. Chope is used to wrap the bride after her ritual bath on her wedding day. The chope is embroidered with one color and it is monochrome. Phulkari embroidery started in the 15 th century and continues till today. Phulkari is a Punjabi rural tradition of handmade work derived from two Sanskrit word phul means flower and Kari mean work. Phulkari means the flower craft, floral work in which the entire surface of the shawl is decorated with floral designs. Phulkari and Bagh were the traditional embroidery shawls from rural Punjab. The word Phulkari is common in East Punjab and Bagh is a popular word for shawls in west Punjab. Phulkari is a shawl that is designed as embroidery to cover women’s heads to be displayed in a Gurdwara. Phulkari is an integral part of the life of Punjabi girl and is considered to be opportune, symbolizing happiness prosperity, and Suhaag of a married woman.Kaur, Rajinder and Gupta, Ola (2014) Phulkari and Bagh folk art of Punjab: a study of changing designs from traditional to contemporary time Many items like pashmina shawls, sarees, and bedspreads are done with this beautiful work and are very well-valued. This intricate and detailed work requires very skilled workers. This exhibition, which examines the artistic, cultural, and political significance of phulkari, is long overdue and will certainly delight visitors who may be unfamiliar with this remarkable art form”.