LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

Product Information

If you use a carbon seatpost, make sure to fit it using a thin layer of carbon paste as this stops it slipping. Pay attention to the quoted torque at which you should tighten the bolt - overdoing it can cause it to snap. If you don't own a torque wrench already, here you can find our recommendations for the best torque wrenches for bikes. To help prevent mistakes when purchasing or changing seatposts, this article explains what kinds of seatpost diameters are most commonly used and how they are measured. Only diameter (width) is dealt with here. The length of the seatpost depends on frame geometry (design) and size – i.e. how much the saddle needs to be raised from the end of the seat tube. A separate article explains the maximum amount of seatpost extension from the frame (minimal insertion length). For seatpost height in terms of bicycle fitting, see: Setting up comfortable riding position. The FSA SL-K head is harder to adjust precisely and it's heavy. FSA K-Force is lighter and has a similar 2 bolt design to the Save and exists in 25.4 but may be harder to find.

The safest way to determine this is to measure (I like to say that one good measurement is better than a thousand expert opinions 🙂 ).

Measuring the circumference of the post and dividing by Pi is a good method. There are even circumference tape measures to do it. Cane Creek’s eeSilk suspension seatpost offers 20mm of elastomer-based vertical compliance and is made from forged and machined aluminum with titanium fastening hardware. This emphasis on premium materials, along with the post’s minimalistic design, means the eeSilk weighs in at less than 300 grams–a comparable weight to many performance alloy seatposts. Seatpost diameters are usually a multiple of 0.2 mm (but not always, as tables 1 and 2 show). If a measured value differs and most closely matches a value that is not a multiple of 0.2, there is a high probability that the closest multiple of 0.2 mm size will fit. For example, a measured 25.5 will most probably fit a 25.4 mm wide (nominal and measured width) seatpost. A rule of thumb is that the widest post that slides in without being forced (other than pushing or twisting by hand) is the right one. If it drops in, with play, before the pinch bolt is tightened, the seatpost is probably too narrow. Rear lights can be a bit of an issue when it comes to an aero post, although many brands now offer adaptors that allow for the shape.

Standard outer diameter dimensions were important so that derailleur clamps etc. could be made in exact matching sizes (derailleur clamp inner diameter needs to match the seat tube’s outer diameter). Higher quality frames are usually made with thinned down tube walls to reduce the weight of the frame. This meant that a wider seatpost diameter usually meant a higher quality (and lighter) frame. So high-quality frames with 1 1/8″ seat tubes usually had 27.2 mm wide seatposts. But measuring the circumference means you only have to distinguish a 0.6 mm difference (because everything is multiplied by 3.14…), which is doable.

Tell us how tall you are, we'll help you find the right size.

Continuing their 20-year suspension seatpost legacy, Cane Creek recently announced the all-new, fourth generation Thudbuster ST (Short Travel). Designed with touring, commutes, and e-bike trips in mind, it features 50mm of travel—up from 33mm on the original Thudbuster ST—to smooth out bumps and bounces on multi-surface rides. Building on the original Thudbuster’s parallel linkage, it also got a redesign for a higher rider weight limit (now up to 330 pounds), increased durability, and more travel. Similarly, if you ride a very small frame size and intend to have the saddle quite low, make sure there's nothing obstructing a longer seatpost from slotting in. However, whilst you can always cut a seatpost that's too long, you can't add to the length if it's too short. A more modern trend, mostly on mountain bikes, where stronger seatposts are required (without too much extra weight) led to a new “oversized” standard of 27.4 mm (and wider).

Aero road bikes come with aero seatposts. These are flatter and designed to channel air more seamlessly, limiting the resistance that slows you down. If you find any other mistakes, feel free to note them. I try to keep this as correct, and up-to-date as possible.Locally (in Novi Sad), I can source 25.4 mm seatposts, but of poor quality – the clamp has very coarse saddle angle adjustment, so depending on the seat tube angle, the saddle can end up being either too much upwards, or downwards tilted (if you know what I mean). The same brand is also responsible for bringing dropper seatposts to the road audience: the Specialized Diverge, in its S-Works form, features a 'Command' dropper post. The theory is that those riding the adventure road bike, like mountain bikers, will want to be able to adjust their saddle height to suit the terrain. Can’t understand that much of a mismatch. I value quality and precision over quantity, but it seems that many manufacturers have a different view on that. No other explanation comes to mind. If you don’t have calipers, you’re hard-pressed to get the diameter. An adjustable wrench can be used as calipers, then measure the gap on the wrench. However, it’s almost impossible to distinguish 0.2 mm increments with a tape measure. The first bicycle frames were made mostly from steel, with steel tubes of a standard (outer) diameter. The British and Italian standard diameter for seat tubes was 1 1/8″ (28.6 mm). Older French bicycles used 28 mm tubing. Old US bicycles (mostly BMX and older bikes that used one-piece cranks) was 1″ (25.4 mm).

Seatposts by nature are simple beasts. Dropper posts notwithstanding, the clamp is the only mechanism. Most posts have adopted versions of the same system for years, with a variation in the number of bolts often the only difference. The NCX seatpost features a patented parallelogram design that Suntour claims works well for small bump compliance. The post has a total of 50mm travel and was designed with low maintenance and long term durability in mind.Reviewing bike parts is somewhat subjective. So to better try and evaluate the performance of the Enve seatpost, I swapped in another expensive carbon seatpost by way of comparison. I did this again with a high-end aluminium model. One (precise) measurement is often better than a thousand expert opinions”– author’s expert opinion. 🙂 Getting a saddle straight in the clamps can, at times, be a minor faff. Too often the clamp mechanism can be slow to react or overly sensitive to the tightening of the bolts. Not here. I had my saddle set and tightened almost immediately. It really was that simple. Once on, the seat looked reassuringly solid in its level position. I trusted it would remain so once I got riding… Enve carbon seatpost - the ride Skinnier seatposts are in vogue at the moment for the same reason skinny seatstays are popular: the theory is that they offer greater flex and therefore comfort. It is easiest to measure the existing seatpost outer diameter – if there is a well-fitting seatpost on the bike. In case there’s no seatpost, we would need to measure the seat-tube’s inner diameter (using calipers, and minding to measure the tube itself, not the seat-clamp’s inner diameter).