I have rewritten my previous blog on “How to Move Your BT Master Socket” to reflect the use of a data-only extension from “A” and “B” to an RJ11 plug-compatible socket. Incoming cable … Always connect to the next available bit of fresh, unused wire, cutting damaged off. One needs to go to an outbuilding, one upstairs and a third will go ‘back’ to the room where the router currently is.

NTE5A Master Socket | « GENUINE - run-IT-direct BT Openreach™ NTE5A Master Socket | « GENUINE - run-IT-direct

If you need to supply a voice service, cable from pins 2 and 5 on the maste socket and run a separate cable. Do I just get my 2 strands of wire and punch them down into the A+B terminals alongside the existing ones? This is because we use three main tower computers, and wired connections are always better than WiFi. Openreach out again – apparently last engineer did not crimp the pairs properly – new down lead, line reset, 39 mbps.

We don’t have an NTE socket just a very old bakelite box behind the front door with jelly crimps inside going between the incoming BT line and two extension sockets.

Master Socket (Without Actually Moving It How to Move Your BT Master Socket (Without Actually Moving It

Broadband Connection now is stable but the issue I now have is that I have lost speed from 39999Kbps to about 30000Kbps. You can connect a socket dedicated to your broadband hub via a spare “A and B” pin, effectively delivering a “pure” broadband supply to wherever you need it. An Openreach engineer fitted one of these 5C Master Socket (with the Mk4 frontplate) and our speed went up to 5. I want to fit three additional slave sockets off of my mk4 master socket for internet for different tv’s around the house to connect to. So my questions would be – what can I legally touch, and is there any point in installing a filtered faceplate and wiring this to a new socket?The components to remove are labelled PS1 and PS2 on the circuit board - they may be orange in colour, and can be removed by desoldering or mechanical destruction. This is currently a topic under discussion on an engineer’s forum, and the consensus is that the 2 and 5 pins on the faceplate (which serve extensions) will not give an ADSL signal to the extension. Well, provided that you are keeping the new cable fairly clear of any source of interference, you won’t lose much at all, probably about as much as you would if your house was a few yards down the street, and further away from the exchange. I don’t want to move the master socket at all, but I do want to strip the paint from that door frame, which will require me to temporarily (and carefully) remove the cable from the frame.

Socket Identification Guide | thinkbroadband Phone Socket Identification Guide | thinkbroadband

Is there any way I can discover which is the master socket without bringing in a telephone engineer? My thoughts were as you suggested in an article to create a secondary master from this neatly wired in wall. I have 4 daisy-chained extension sockets, of which the final one is in my study at the other side of the house and is the one I have always used for the router connection as this location is the hub for all my wired ethernet cabling in the house.The master socket is usually the first socket where the telephone line comes in to the property and is where the I-Plate needs to be installed. It’s just the same process required here – I’d start with a dangle filter on the test side of the master socket, test speed, add the front plate (test again), then onto your run of cable, etc, etc.